Top And Bottom

Prepare the top and bottom the dimensions given in the. drawing. These two pieces must be made exactly the same size.


Nail this framework together with plain butt joints (Chapter V., Paragraph 60) and test with a large steel square to make sure it is perfectly square. You might nail a brace temporarily across the front edge to hold it perfectly square while you turn it over on the tressels, and put on the back of beaded ceiling. The case must be kept perfectly square while the back is being put on, for if it is crooked it will remain in that shape when completed. The middle partition should be cut exactly the same length as the outside pieces, less the thickness of the top and bottom, and nailed in position through the bottom and the top.

The Shelves

Square the stock (Chapter II., Paragraphs 2, 3, 4 and 5); prepare the shelves the dimensions shown in the drawing. (If you prefer these shelves may be put in with a gained joint (Chapter V., Paragraph 61) or they may be made adjustable by inserting screw eyes or screws into the side pieces to support them). You will note in the drawing that only one side is equipped with shelves. The other side may be similarly equipped, if desired.

The Casing

Square the stock (Chapter II., Paragraphs 3, 4 and 5); prepare the casing the proper dimensions. Nail this casing in position, making it exactly even with the outside of the case all around.

The Doors

The doors are to be made of beaded ceiling nailed on cross strips called battens. Prepare these battens the proper size. Also prepare the brace strips which are to extend diagonally between the battens. Plane off the groove from the edge of the first piece of beaded ceiling (this will give it a firm edge to receive the hinges). Make sure that the battens stand perfectly square when the first strip is nailed into position; keep the work square as the ceiling strips are added. The doors, when completed, may be re-sawed at bottom and top to fit the opening perfectly. Fasten them in position with T-hinges, as shown in the drawing. The doors should be provided with spring catches, or a lock, if desirable. Add the rabbet or bumper strip, against which the doors close at the top.


When the work is completed go over it with a sharp plane and smooth any joints that may not be perfect. Set the nails a little below the surface of the wood and fill the holes with putty. Finish with paint (Chapter IV., Paragraph 52) or stain (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54). Note: In the suggestions will be found a number of ideas for tool racks for shop tool cases. By following these suggestions you should be able to work out a great many other convenient racks and hangers which you may fasten in your tool case or on the doors in such shape as you find desirable and convenient for your particular set of tools.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Sewing Cabinet

1. A sewing cabinet particularly adapted for school use may be made on a plan very similar to the shop tool case. Each student should be provided with a tray or box in which to keep all sewing materials. A cabinet of this kind fitted with shelves to accommodate the size and number of the trays will be a valuable piece of equipment.

Drawing Board Cabinet

2. A very serviceable cabinet, for the protection of drawing boards in the mechanical drawing department, can be easily constructed on the principles given in this lesson. The cabinet should be made deep enough to receive the full width of the boards when standing on end.