This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.

Back (Fig. 47)

AX equals full length.

AA equals construction line (indefinite length).

XX equals line for lower edge of middy.

AB equals length of back (to waist; short line).

AG equals one-half of AB.

CC equals construction line.

AD equals one-half of AG.

DD equals construction line.

AE equals one-sixth neck measure. . EF equals one inch.

AF equals neck curve.

DH equals one-half width of back plus one inch.

HI equals AD minus one-half inch. IJ equals three-quarter inch.

CK equals one-quarter bust measure plus one inch.

KL equals one-quarter inch.

LM equals underarm line, at right angles to CC.

MP equals height of opening (five to six inches).

PN equals one inch.

NO equals one inch. POQ equals hem of hip opening.

Front (Fig. 47)

AX equals full length.

AE equals one-sixth neck measure plus one inch.

EF equals two inches.

FJ equals end of ruler on F and length of back shoulder measure touching AA. DH equals one-half width of front plus two and one-quarter inches. CK equals DH plus two and one-half inches. KL equals one-quarter inch.

LM equals underarm seam, at right angles to CC. MP equals height of opening (five to six inches). PN equals one inch. NO equals one inch. POQ equals hem of hip opening. AR equals depth of front opening (nine to ten inches).

G8 equals one inch.

ST equals one-third CK. TU equals three and one-half inches. UV equals one-quarter inch.

TV equals points for placing pockets.

Sleeve (Fig. 48)

AB equals inside length of sleeve plus four inches.

AG equals four inches.

CD equals one-half armhole plus one inch.

AD equals dotted line.

AE equals two inches.

EF equals one-half inch. AFD equals top of sleeve.

BG equals CD minus one and one-half inches.

DG equals (dotted line).

DH equals one-half of DG.

HI equals one-quarter inch. DIG equals inside seam of sleeve.

CJ equals depth of opening.

JK equals one-inch extension.

GL equals one-inch extension.

KL equals line of extension.

Fig. 48. - Draft of pattern for middy blouse sleeve.

Points for Tucks

1. Three-quarter inch from fold of sleeve.

2. Three-quarter inch from 1.

3. Three-quarter inch from 2.

4. One and one-half inches from 3.

5. Three-quarter inch from 4.

Project from each of these points, a vertical line five and one-half inches long.

Collar (Fig. 49A)

• AB equals ten inches.

±C equals one half neck measure plus one-quarter inch. CD equals one and one-half inches.

Fig. 49. - Draft of pattern for A, middy blouse collar; B, middy blouse facing.

AC equals one and one-half inches. EF equals one inch. EFDC equals neck line (curve carefully). BH equals one-half neck measure. HI equals one-quarter inch. CI equals side of collar. BI equals bottom of collar.

Facing (Fig. 49B)

AB equals five inches longer than opening of middy.

AC equals two inches.

AD equals one-sixth of neck measure plus one inch.

AC equals curve.

BE equals two and one-half inches.

DE equals edge of facing.

Shield (Fig. 50A)

AB equals length of shield.

AC equals.one-sixth of neck measure.

CD equals one-sixth of. neck measure.

DE equals two inches.

CF equals one-sixth of neck measure plus one inch. ADF equals neck curve. ADG equals one-half neck measure on ADF.

GH equals two inches at right angles to neck curve.

BI equals two and one-half inches. IEH equals outer edge of shield.

Pocket (Fig. 50B)

AB equals three and three-quarter inches.

BC equals five inches. A BCD equals rectangle.

BE equals one-quarter inch.

EF equals one-quarter inch.

AH equals one-eighth inch. Connect HE.

AI equals one and one-half inches.

EG equals one and one-half inches. Connect FG.

Connect IG (line for fold). Connect EG.

DJ equals one and one-half inch curve.

DK equals one and one-quarter inch curve.

CL equals two-inch curve.

CM equals two-inch curve.

Fig. 50. - Draft of pattern for A, middy blouse shield; B, middy blouse pocket.

1. Name three points of difference between the mannish shirt and the shirtwaist, which you have found in drafting patterns for them.

2. In what way does the increased bust measure affect the lines of the pattern compared with a shirtwaist pattern?

3. Why is one section of the collar drafted longer than the other? What is a French cuff?

4. In what points is the middy blouse similar to the mannish shirt? How different?

5. How would you design a yoke for a middy blouse, if the pattern has no yoke?

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