This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.

Back (Fig. 45)

AA equals line of indefinite length.

AB equals length of back.

BB equals construction line, two-thirds of AA.

AG equals one-half of AB.

CC equals construction line, equals AA.

AD equals one-half of AC.

DD equals construction line, equals AA.

AE equals one-sixth of neck measure.

EF equals three-quarter inch.

DG equals one-half width of back plus three-quarter inch.

GH equals AE.

HI equals three-quarter inch.

FI equals shoulder line.

CJ equals one-quarter increased bust measure minus two inches.

BK equals one-quarter waist measure plus one and one-quarter inches. KK1 equals one-quarter inch. BK1 equals waist line.

KL equals underarm measure from K1, ruler touching J. KM equals four-inch ruler on FKM.

BN equals four inches.

Fig. 45. - Draft of pattern for a mannish shirt.

NM equals bottom of shirt.

DO equals three-quarter inch.

GP equals three-eighth inch.

OP equals line of yoke.

Front (Fig. 44)

AE equals one-sixth neck measure plus three-eighth inch. EF equals one-quarter inch. AF1 equals one-sixth neck measure. DG equals one-half width of front plus one and one-quarter inches. GH equals two-thirds DA (draw dotted line to left of H). FI equals ruler on F, shoulder measure touching I).

CJ equals one-half increased bust measure minus CJ of the back. JK equals dotted line. KK1 equals one inch.

K1L equals under arm measure touching A1 and J. K1M equals four-inch ruler on F and A'1.

N equals intersections of CJ, ruler on F and A1. F10 equals length of front. NP equals one-half-inch ruler on N and 0. I PL equals armhole. OR equals one and three-quarter inches. RS equals four-inch ruler on F1 and R. MS equals lower edge of shirt. • Shirt Sleeve (Fig. 46A)

AB equals line of indefinite length (in centre of paper). AC equals one-quarter armhole (measure on shirtwaist draft). CD equals inside length of sleeve minus depth of curl". CE equals one-half width at top. EE1 equals one-half inch. EF equals three-quarter inch. AF equals dotted line.

G equals one-half of AF. GH equals line at right angles to AF intersecting CE (point of intersection I). IJ equals three inches. AF equals curve for top of under sleeve (using J as pivot, J A as radius, to swing curve from A to K. FK equals two inches along curve.

KE1 equals reverse curve to complete top of under sleeve. GL equals one inch. EM equals one and one-quarter inches. EN equals three and one-quarter inches. ALNME1 equals curve for top of upper sleeve.

DO equals hand measure plus fulness desired. DP equals one-half of DO. PS equals three-eighth inch. PR equals three-eighth inch. DSO equals bottom of under sleeve. DRO equals bottom of upper sleeve. ST equals placket opening four and one-half-inch cut on under sleeve. Fold paper on line AD and crease; trace outline of upper sleeve, and cut around pattern.

Collar Band (Turn Down Collar) (Fig. 46A.)

AB equals neck measure plus one and one-half inches. AD equals height of collar. ABCD equals rectangle.

AE equals one-half of AB. BF equals one-third of BE. AG equals one-third of AE.

AH equals one-quarter inch.

BI equals one-quarter inch.

HGEFI equals lower edge of band.

DJ equals one and three-quarter inches.

CK equals five-eighth inch.

KI equals end of band.

DE equals dotted line.

DI equals one-half inch.

HIJ equals curve for end of band.

EL equals centre of band.

LM equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts).

LN equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts).

EO equals five-eighth inch, equals buttonhole.

OP equals one-half neck measure - outer end of buttonhole.

OR equals one-half neck measure - outer end of buttonhole.

GF equals lengthwise thread of goods in cutting.

Collar {Turn Down) (Fig. 46B)

AB equals one-half neck measure. BC equals desired height of collar. ABCD equals rectangle. AE equals one inch.

AF equals one and three-quarter inches. DG equals one-quarter inch. GFE equals curve for corner of collar. CH equals five and one-half inches (notch for matching parts). CB equals lengthwise fold.

French or Turn Back Cuff (Fig. 46C)

AB equals hand measure plus one and one-half to two inches. BC equals twice finished depth of cuff. ABCD equals rectangle.

EF equals one-half depth of cuff (line for fold). DC equals lengthwise thread of goods.

Pocket (Fig. 46D)

AB equals four and one-half inches. BC equals five and one-half inches. ABCD equals rectangle.

AE equals one and three-eighth inches. BF equals one and three-eighth inches. EF equals line for hem at top. CG equals two and three-quarter inches. CH equals one inch. HI equals one-quarter inch. DJ equals one inch. JK equals one-quarter inch. Ah equals two inches. ELK equals side of pocket.

BM equals one and one-half inches. FMI equals side of pocket. KGI equals lower edge of pocket.

FIG. 46. - Draft of pattern for shirt sleeve, collarband, collar, cuff and pocket.

KO equals one and one-eighth inches. LN equals one and three-eighth inches.

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