This section is from the book "The Complete Cook", by J. M. Sanderson. Also available from Amazon: The Complete Cook.
Have the head and broth ready for the soup the day before it is to be eaten; it will take eight hours to prepare it properly. Get the calf's head with the skin on, the fresher the better, take out the brains and wash the head several times in cold water, let it soak in spring water for an hour, then lay it in the stew-pan, cover it with cold water, and half a gallon over; as it becomes warm a great deal of scum will rise, which must be immediately removed; let it boil gently for one hour, then take it up. When almost cold cut the head into pieces about an inch and a half long and an inch and a quarter broad; the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather make a side dish of the tongue and brains. When the head is taken out, put in about five pounds of knuckle of veal, and as much beef; add to the stock all the trimmings and bones of the head; skim it well, then cover it close, let it boil five hours; reserve two quarts of this to make gravy sauce, then strain it off and let it stand till the next morning; then take off the fat, put a large stew-pan on the fire, with half a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onions sliced, four ounces of green sage chopped; let these fry one hour; rub in half a pound of flour by degrees, add your broth till it is the thickness of cream; season it with a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and half an ounce of black pepper, ground very fine, salt to your taste, add the rind of one lemon peeled very thin; let it simmer very gently for one hour and a half, then strain it through a hair sieve, do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve or it will make it grouty; if it do not run through easily, knock a wooden spoon against the side of the sieve; put it into a clean stew-pan with the head, and season by adding, to each gallon of soup, half a pint of wine, Madeira, or claret if you wish it dark; two table-spoonfuls of lemon juice, the same of catsup, one of essence of anchovy, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, or a quarter of a drachm of cayenne, the peel of a lemon pared very thin. Let it simmer gently till the meat is tender; this may take from half an hour to an hour; take care that it is not over-done; stir it frequently to prevent the meat sticking to the bottom of the stew-pan;
Men the meat is quite done, take out the lemon peel, and the soup is ready. Serve with force meat stuffing, or balls.
 
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