This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
With severely tailored waists are worn close-fitting collars of linen, stiffly starched, or made of the same material as the waist. The pattern for such is in two pieces, a stand, and the collar portion. The stand is cut lengthwise of the material around the neck, and enough longer than the collar to admit of lapping and fastening. The collar is cut crosswise around the neck to allow for stretching over the stand when drawn about the neck; it is cut long enough for the upper corners to meet or separate slightly. Cut two thicknesses of collar and stand sections. Place the right sides of the two collar sections, and also the two stand sections, together; stitch across the ends and lower edges as far as indicated on the pattern;
Fig. 186. - Cuffs and collar bands; making and placing; A, interlined cuff, wrong and right side; B, triple fold cuff, wrong and right side; C, French turn-back cuff; D, collar band with protector, pieces cut and pinned together; seam basted, extension folded back; band, right side; B, plain band, wrong and right side; F, band placed showing end of buttonhole on line with center of plait; G, cuff placed, arrow shows point one inch beyond center of cuff, placed to seam of sleeve; H, cuff to button over ; I, cuff for link fastening.
Fig. 187. - Placket facing for sleeve, continuous; bound and faced; A, sleeve folded, dart placed at top of opening; B, facing placed; C, facing cut and basted to under sleeve; D, edge of sleeve dropped, facing swung to place; e, finished facing.
Fig. 186. - Cuffs and collar bands. (Descriptive matter on p. 320).
Fig. 187. - Placket facing for sleeve. (Descriptive matter on p. 320.) trim corners diagonally; turn both sections to right side, and baste on turn. Then turn in the edges of the unstitched portion of the stand, and clip the edge of the collar between these, baste and stitch in continuous line, first around the collar, then the stand. Work buttonholes at points indicated on the pattern (Fig. 179A and B).
Before stitching the sleeves, the placket must be faced. The opening should have been cut as far as indicated, on the pattern, four inches long and one inch from the fold on the under side of the sleeve. There are five separate steps to be followed in making the placket facing:
(a) Fold the sleeve lengthwise on a line with the placket opening. On the right side of the sleeve sew a dart one-eighth inch wide at the top of the placket opening and running off to nothing one-half inch above the opening. Use fine running stitches (Fig. 187A).
(b) Tear a lengthwise strip of material twice the length of the placket opening, by three inches wide. Hold the right side of facing to the wrong side of sleeve; sew to place all round the opening, taking a very narrow seam and using small running stitches (Fig. 1875).
(c) Lay the sleeve flat on the table right side up, fold the upper part of the sleeve back on itself on a line with the top of the placket opening. Fold the facing back on the under part of the sleeve. Baste folded edge to place. Measure from folded edge at bottom of facing seven-eighth inch (no more). Cut facing through at this point up as far as the top of the opening. Clip the facing in at this point one-eighth inch. Turn edge in and baste to sleeve (Fig. 1870).
(d) Drop top of sleeve to place and swing facing around so as to form the upper piece. Baste to place (Fig. 187D).
(e) Measure five and one-half inches from the bottom of sleeve and cut facing straight across at this point. Turn edges under so as to form a point. Cut away unnecessary cloth, baste to place. Stitch close to edge of facing and twice across at the top of the opening, one-eighth inch apart, yet so as to cover the raw edge of the material (Fig. 187E). Striped material sometimes makes a difficult problem on account of matching the stripes. If the problem proves too difficult one may cut away the upper part of the facing and apply a separate piece, the stripes of which will match those of the sleeve. The placket in one continuous piece is very satisfactory because the sleeve is smooth on the inside, and there is little bulk of material from unnecessary seaming. The placket is strong, being all in one piece.
The seams of the sleeve are to be finished with a stitched fell. After making the first stitching, turn the fell from the upper side of the sleeve to the under. Examine your sleeve before turning the fell and notice that the upper sleeve being higher at the top than the lower, the seam would run short on the under if the fell were turned the reverse way. The seam would also be likely to draw at the elbow curve. In stitching the fell the second time, you will find it easier to handle if you turn your sleeve wrong side out and work from the inside. Place a row of gathers one-quarter inch from bottom edge of sleeve and a second row one-quarter inch above the first, except across the placket facing, and for a space of three-quarter inch on each side of the seam.