This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Do you cater to the so-called temperance people?" asked the writer.
"Yes, and while there is no wine served from bottles, we manage to introduce enough of it to make the company lively. There is mighty little inspiration to be obtained out of a glass of water, and that class of people knows this as well as we do. They don't, as a rule, order us to fortify the viands with wine, but I notice that dishes which contain spirits are usually selected from the bills of fare submitted for their consideration. Roman punch is always acceptable to them and is jokingly called 'the life-saving station' of a temperance dinner. Fritters of fruits and vegetables having maraschino sauce is another temperance delight not often objected to.
"Terrapin may be good eating without a little sherry," continued the caterer, "but I have never served it without adding sherry to it. Every one knows that it is the wine which improves its flavor. Terrapin is a very popular dish among so-called temperance diners. There are a variety of sauces which are served with meats that contain more or less wine. The one most favored at these temperance dinners is sauce Bordelaise. The electric pudding, so called because it is liberally charged with brandy, was invented by a temperance dinner-giver. Here are three of their bills of fare having tipsy parson pudding on them. In desserts we can furnish an endless variety of dainties well calculated to losen the tongues of temperance after-dinner speakers. When you want to give that kind of a banquet come and see me".
"The most notable anecdote of Hayes' administration seems to have been that relating to the device resorted to to turn the flank of Mrs. Hayes' determination to allow no intoxicating beverages at her table. Mr. Evarts, Secretary of State, refused to permit the Diplomatic Corps to be invited to their customary annual dinner unless wine could be on the table. This Mrs. Hayes refused to allow; but the steward managed to gratify those fond of something stronger than lemonade. Among the delicacies on the table were an extraordinary number of oranges, and waiters were kept busy replenishing the salvers on which the tropical fruit lay. Glances telegraphed to one another that the missing link was found, and that, concealed within the oranges was delicious frozen punch, a large ingredient of which was strong old Santa Croix rum. This phase of the dinner was named by those who enjoyed it the life-saving station.' "