This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
A number of the old standard puddings can be found described under the respective letters; the list to follow here are names likely to be met with in French bills of fare.
"English 'sweets' have an acknowledged place of honor in the science halls of the greatest French chefs. Le pouding is ' the pudding,' nothing more, nothing less; English by its name and English by its nature".
Apple pud-dihg of alternate layers of bread crumbs and stewed apples.
A mould or individual small moulds are coated inside with candy made by melting sugar over the fire without water; the moulds are then filled with strong custard or other suitable mixture and steamed. When turned out the caramel coating comes with it and serves as sauce, as it is nearly dissolved.
A marmalade of any variety.
A sponge cake pudding with brandy poured into it.
Bread pudding of any of the numerous varieties.
Brown bread pudding.
Ground rice pudding.
Pineapple pudding or cream tart:
A jelly roll made of a sheet of genoise cake roiled up with jam.
"Of all the old-fashioned, simple-hearted old puddings formerly common, even in London eating-houses, cowslip and tansy were the most characteristic. Shakespeare no doubt partook of both of them. In both cases the tansy and 'cowslip have about as much to do with the puddings as the flint stone has with the proverbial broth. The pounded tansies are mixed with eggs and cream, spinach-juice, Naples buiscuits, sugar, white wine, and nutmegs. The mixture is thickened over the fire, then put into a dish lined with paste and baked.
This may not sound well, nevertheless it was a current pudding - we mean a popular pudding - not so many years ago".
Diplomatic pudding. A cold cream ornamented in a mould. It is made like jaune-mange, or velvet cream, or Italian cream; a yolk of egg custard with gelatine in it enough to solidify it when ice cold, and flavored with brandy and vanilla. The mould is coated with clear wine jelly by turning it about on ice and decorated with candied fruits stuck on the cooling jelly. More candied fruits are mixed in the yellow cream which is then poured in to fill up the mould.
The same yellow cream with gelatine in it as for Diplomatic, but the mould lined with lady fingers like a charlotte, on the sides and the bottom covered with ratafias. Thick cream mixed with the gelatine custard. All set in ice and turned out and served very cold, with whipped cream.
Yellow yolk of egg custard made with cream as for Diplomatic, then mixed with apcicot marmalade diluted with orange juice. When nearly cold some whipped whites mixed in, set on ice in a mould. In all these there should be 1 oz. gelatine to each quart- With too much gelatine the compositions are hard and leathery, with too little they will not keep shape. (For other puddings see Ices).