This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
There is American macaroni that usually comes loose in the large boxes, and some of it is as good as the imported; it should be tried, however, a small quantity first, for poor macaroni dissolves in the water it is boiled in, and is of no more use .than so much flour paste. The difficulty in making seems to be the choice of flour; macaroni needs a particular kind. It is cheap food, comparatively, as it is dry and in condensed form and without waste.
Macaroni with butter; the most ordinary way of serving it in Italy. It is not broken much, but thrown at once in boiling salted water and cooked from 15 to 20 minutes, drain, put a piece of butter in the centre and sprinkle cheese over the top; place on the top shelf of a hot oven till thoroughly heated and brown on top.
Boiled macaroni with butter, salt and grated cheese mixed together hot, and served plain.
Macaroni and lobster, made by putting a layer of boiled macaroni in a dish, a layer of lobster butter, then a layer of white sauce, then grated cheese, and repeating till the dish is full, with pieces of lobster and truffles oh top; made hot without browning.
"The dressing and the eating of macaroni-are very imperfectly understood in England. It is usually served at the end of the dinner; it should be one of the earliest dishes partaken of; few cooks know how to boil it, and send it to table either of the consist ency of soup, or underdone and leathery. Finally, at some English tables this delicious, wholesome article of food has inflicted upon it the dire outrage of being ate with mustard. Mustard with macaroni! As well might one eat strawberry-cream with chili vinegar".
Put a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg into a well-warmed deep dish; lay on it about half a pound of boiled macaroni, well drained; turn it over, as a salad is 'worked,' with two forks adding during the process plenty of fresh-grated Parmesan cheese.
A pound af macaroni boiled in salted water; drained; pepper, salt, 1 pt. cream sauce, 6 oz. butter, 6 oz. cheese; mixed; in baking dish with cream sauce spread on top, cheese, crumbs, bits butter; baked brown.
Short macaroni boiled; fondue of cheese, eggs, and butter stirred together till hot, not boiled; poured over the macaroni in a dish.
Same as baked macaroni.
Boiled macaroni in cream-sauce containing grated cheese.