This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Mutton kidneys are a great breakfast specialty-in England; grilled kidneys are only prevented from being as universally served as the national eggs and bacon by their dearness;the demand is always greater than the supply, and the price is high, accordingly. Australia, which exports so much mutton, now sends to England sheep-kidneys in a frozen state, and the coveted delicacy may soon be obtainable by people of moderate means inconsequence.
The kidneys skinned are cut open without quite severing the two halves, and a thin skewer run through them edgewise to keep them in flat shape for broiling; dipped in butter, laid on gridiron cut-side down; broiled 3 minutes; turned, and broiled 3 minutes more; served with maitre d'hotel butter.
"Kidneys should be eaten directly they are dressed, else they will lose their goodness. They are also uneatable if too much done, and a man that cannot eat meat underdone should not have them at his table. In France they are saute with champagne or chab-lis".
Any kind; same as the preceding without brown sauce ready; but flour stirred in, and water added; simmered to thicken.
Slices strung on a skewer, saute in a pan with butter, or in the oven, and finished on the gridiron; served on the skewer if it is silver, or slipped off the skewer on to toast, and sauce poured over.
One pound butter, 6 oz. finely chopped shallots, 4 oz. chopped parslev, pepper, salt, lemon juice; worked together.
Equal number of slices of each; fried together, and gravy made in the pan.
Patty cases filled with the kidneys in cream, above; (2) kidneys, ham and mushrooms cut in dice, fried together; thick sauce added.
Mutton kidneys cut open, bread crumbed and broiled; the hollows filled with tartar sauce, and devil sauce around.
Kidneys in halves fried in butter with shallots; dressed on a border; brown sauce with anchovy butter.
Thin slices of kidneys parboiled, simmered in butter; served in white sauce with champagne and mushrooms.
Kidney patties, as above previously described.
Calf's kidney minced, stirred up in a pan With butter; brown sauce and wine added.
Small round slices of veal kidney in brown sauce with shallots and mushrooms; baked in small paper cases, the tops sprinkled with bread-crumbs.
Specialty of Paris restaurant. Kidneys in slices skewered edgewise, cooked in kidney fat with vegetables, covered with buttered paper; drained, taken off skewers, glazed, placed in dish; peas on one side, green beans on other, glazed spring carrots at one end, duchesse potatoes to finish. Tomato sauce separate.