This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
A little sea fish caught in the Mediterranean. It has a high flavor, is used as an appetizer and in sauces. It is preserved in salt brine; can be bought either in bottles or small kegs of one or two quarts' size. Anchovies as a cold hors d'amvre are served uncooked. Wipe, split, serve in oil like sardines with garnish of eggs, parsley, lemons, etc., and, uncooked, they are cut in pieces in some sorts of salads. Anchovy Essence is a pink-colored, oily, thick sort of sauce; can be bought in bottles. One London firm is said to have almost a monopoly of the manufacture, making nine-tenths of all the anchovy essence used in the world. The essence consists of pounded anchovies simmered with water, vinegar, spices, mushroom catsup and the brine the fish were preserved in, all passed through a seive, bottled and corked down while hot. Adulterated or spurious samples have been found to contain starch for consistency and Venetian red for color. Anchovy essence is used to flavor fish sauce, (see admiral sauce or sauce a I'amiral), and as a finish to turtle soup, and especially for imitations or soups made of fresh water turtles.
The largest sea turtles possess the anchovy flavor so s'trong as to make them scarcely eatable.
Another name for anchovy butter.
Anchovies washed, boned, pounded with soft butter through a seive; may be mixed with parsley and lemon juice; is used to spread upon hot, broiled beefsteak and upon toast, also in pats to garnish dishes of broiled or boiled fish. It can be made as well by stirring anchovy essence into softened butter.
Anchovies passed through a seive, made into a paste with flour, baked dry in thin cakes, powdered and used for flavoring.
Split, boned, dipped in fritter batter and fried same as anchois a la d'Horly.
Butter sauce, hot, highly flavored either with an chovy essence or chopped anchovies and lemon juice, served with fish and steaks.
Fillets (boneless sides) of anchovies laid on an omelet, not rolled but flat in the pan, another flat omelet turned upon it and the cooking of the inside finished in the oven.
Slices of toast, either buttered and with the boneless sides of anchovies with mustard and cayenne laid upon them, or toast spread with anchovy butter.
Small pieces of fish forcemeat mixed with fjichovy butter baked inside of two flats of puff paste.
Round and thin slices of bread or biscuits, buttered, anchovies in oil (like sardines) cut in thin strips and arranged crosswise upon them, the spaces filled with minced eggs, pickles, etc.; lunch dish.
Thin sliced bread spread with anchovy butter or puree of anchovies with butter.
Hard boiled eggs cut in halves, the yolks taken out, rubbed through a seive, seasoned with anchovy essence and butter, put back in the whites served, garnished, either hot or cold.
Rice (boiled) stirred up with an -chovy essence, butter, flour and eggs, and baked.
(See page 231).
 
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