This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
A small sea-fish, in appearance something like a sardine; formerly supposed to be the young herring. It appears at certain seasons in English waters in, immense numbers and becomes extremely abundant and cheap in the markets.
In Devonshire they have a special local pie, which is " fearfully and wonderfully made." It consists of a layer of sliced apples, a layer of sliced onions, and a layer of meat; the meat layer is well seasoned with pepper, salt, and a liberal allowance of sugar. They proceed thus until the pie-dish is filled; it is then covered with a crust. In spite of its eccentric ingredients, it is very good eating, and squab pie and clotted cream are the two best things to be got in Devonshire.
There are two classes of vegetables with this name and several varieties of each. The summer squashes are like the English vegetable marrow, greatly esteemed as a mashed vegetable, but very watery until dried down. The winter squashes are as mealy as potatoes and used in the same ways. They are as large as pumpkins and deeper colored.
"The squirrel, a charming little animal, which ought never to please but when alive, often appeared at Rome among the most elegant dishes of the feast. At first it was only eaten by caprice; unfortunately for the little animal, it was found to be very nice." "The usual way of cooking squirrels in France is the same as for pullet stewed a la chasseur, which dish the squirrel, thus prepared, is said greatly to resemble. Squirrel is a favorite mets in many French country houses.
Young squirrels are flattened out and broiled the same as chickens.
(See Cumberland Stew).
Make two gallons of starch the ordinary way with water, then melt in half of a common candle. Set it out of doors till cool enough to stir round with your hand and then mix half a cup of raw starch and stir in. Take off the skin that will form on top. "Anybody can iron with it".
A recent invention. It is made of the very finest flour, and baked in air-tight pans, which enclose it on all sides. It is thus baked in its own steam and possesses a flavor peculiarly its own.
The chaux paste, same as for queen fritters (which see) laid in form of a border around a pie-paste bottom crust and baked; when done the cake is filled up in various ways, as, with pastry, cream or custard bordered (on top of the puff border) with sugared cherries or brandied fruits; or with the pastry cream mixed with whipped cream, etc.