This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
At the Tivoli restaurant was recently exhibited the head of an exceptionally large sturgeon caught on the Dogger Bank, and consigned to Mr. T. Kent, of Billingsgate. The weight of this royal fish was 644 pounds; its measurement being 11 feet 2 inches long, and 5 feet 2 in. in girth.
The sturgeon is taken in abundance in Lakes Michigan and Superior, and as the price in market varies according to the demand of the curers, the fish are kept alive in pens at the fishing stations until orders are received by telegraph to ship to the city.
Smoked sturgeon is now included by epicures among fish delicacies. About a hundred pounds at a time are placed in a brick furnace, with eight-inch walls, leaving an inside square of about three feet. A very hot fire being placed directly underneath, the fat as it melts generates its own smoke. Care has to be taken that the flow is not so heavy as to produce too fierce a flame, as then there would be a charred fish, which is not desirable. The time necessary to smoke sturgeon is about six hours. Eels undergo a like process, and are very palatable. There is a peculiarity about the smoking of haddock, inasmuch as it is smoked entirely with sawdust Of course it can be smoked by other means, but the best method is the sawdust fire.
Baked slice of sturgeon. Lay a fine slice of sturgeon in a tin dish, sprinkle with a little olive oil, the juice of a lemon, chopped mixed herbs, salt and pepper; bake, and when done, place in another dish, pass the sauce through a tammy, pour over the fish, and hand re-moulade sauce separately.
Sturgeon - esturgeon.
Sturgeon larded and braised with wine stock, herbs, onions and ham.
Baked cut of sturgeon served with Bourguignotte sauce.
Broiled sturgeon steak with piquant sauce.
Small sturgeon steaks larded with strips of truffles sand lean ham, parboiled in seasoned broth; put into oiled papers with chopped herbs, folded up and broiled in the papers. Served without the papers with butter sauce around.
Slices, or sturgeon steaks.