This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"The potato is not in France the homely esculent that it is on this side the ocean. There are as many ways of preparing it asihere were in Goldsmith's time of cooking a nettle-top. Potatoes are oniy admitted en robe de chambre, that is to say, in their jackets, to the midday meal, and then on unceremonious occasions. They chiefly figure at dejeuners intimes, or dejeuners taken at restaurants where the bifteck auxpommes and la cotelette a la puree de pomme de terre are in great favor".
Specialty of M. Joseph, of the Cafe Paillard. "These are potatoes en surprise, I take a potato and hollow it out, filling the hollow with a salpicon of shrimp-tails drenched in a bisque sauce made of the heads and pounded bodies of the shrimps. Then I cover the potato up and bake it in cinders. It comes to table baked and burnt. I called it Georgette, because I created it on the day of the first night of Victorien Sardou's play of that name at the Vaudeville Theatre. Sardou's play ran only ninety nights. My Georgette has had an unlimited run".
Specialty. "For serving with cold meat, etc., potatoes cooked after the following recipe, given me by a Parisian chef, are very suitable. The recipe is tor pommes de terre aux ceufs. Put a good-sized lump of butter into your pan; as soon as it is hot, brown some onions in it. Cut some cold potatoes, which have been boiled in their skins, and afterwards peeled, into slices. Throw these slices into the pan. Spread over them the well-whipped yellow of two eggs. Salt,pepper and serve when your potatoes have taken a nice brown color on each side".
"I discovered these to be the pommes a la lyomiaise - slices of boiled potato fried with onion and baked in the oven. At this restaurant, however, the pota toes are sprinkled with a little grated cheese before they are put into the oven. A decided improvement. The garnish of minced parsley rerrfains, of course, indispensable".
Specialty. Potatoes cut in rounds, boiled until barely done in salted water, drained, put into cream which has been reduced to a state of condensed richness by evaporation in a steam vessel. "It is the reduction of the cream to one-half its volume that is the special and essential feature of the recipe for potatoes a la Maire, and it is to this special treatment they owe that excellence which constitutes them the leading specialty of Maire's Restaurant".
Hash cream potatoes is an acceptable breakfast dish if hot potatoes are used; but cold potatoes have a disagreeable flavor, which spoils the dish. Cut three warm boiled potatoes into small even pieces, add them to half a pint of boiled cream and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the mixture into a small tin or baking dish; strew lightly over the top a thin layer of bread-crumbs or grated cheese; add a pat of butter, and bake a delicate brown.