As in many other things, there are many and various opinions respecting the proper time of year to transplant evergreens. Some assert that the only true time is that just previous to their bursting into a new growth in the spring, say from first to the middle of May. Others, again, regard it all unsafe to move an evergreen except with a frozen ball, or at any event a ball of earth attached to the roots. Our experience of some thirty years, during which we have directed the transplanting of many thousands of evergreens, of all sizes, from six inches to thirty feet high, and of nearly every known hardy variety, is that an evergreen is no more difficult of removal than a deciduous tree, and that any time, except during their period of annual growth, is the correct time; and further, that if the roots are kept from drying, it matters not whether they have a ball of earth attached or not. Always endeavor, in digging the tree, to get as much, and break as few, of the roots as possible; protect at once from the air, as soon as dug, by wrapping the roots in a cloth; when setting, carefully spread out each root, and pack the earth among and around them, especially at the bottom; leave the surface of the ground level; spread at once a mulch of some sort, all around as far as the limbs extend, and wet it down thoroughly, not with two quarts of water, but a barrel or more; lastly, take your shears or knife and cut back all the branches, taking off at least all of the last year's growth; and if in taking up, the roots are badly broken or destroyed, then cut back the whole of the two previous years' growth.

Evergreens bear the knife much more kindly than many suppose. We have tried trees side by side, cutting one and leaving the other in its natural condition, and the clipped tree always was the best at the end of two years.

Cuttings of the basket-willow planted in places too wet for cultivation, or by the edge of ponds, marshes, etc., will grow rapidly, and the second year a crop may be cut for sale, that will make the planting not only ornamental but profitable. Willow cuttings also are very useful on a place for tying vines, stakes, etc., and every country place should have at least one plant from which to cut for almost every-day uses.

Woodburt, Conn., Jan. 11, 1867.

Editors Horticulturist - Gents. In a recent number of the Horticulturist, a writer, while remonstrating against the introduction of English sparrows, insinuates that our little "Jenny Wren" is not above suspicion, that she possibly may attack fruit buds, etc. Well, admitting she does (which I doubt), does she not atone for it by the insects and worms she devours ? In the spring of 1865, the vine-growers of Hartford and vicinity were complaining of a little white worm which was making great ravages among their vines; looking carefully over my own vines, I found they, too, were infested. But I found a family of wrens had discovered them before me, and were making short work with them - " chatter" - "chatter" - zip - zip - along the trellis, and the worms disappeared. A neighbor, who was confined to her room by illness for several weeks, had a family of wrens, close to her window, on a cherry-tree; she observed the wrens bringing these worms from the vines and feeding them to their young, all hours of the day.

So much for Jenny Wren.

In your last issue, page 14, a Mr. Bennett gives us a new theory of "grape-rot and mildew." What next ? I was about sending for the " Sulphur Bellows," and now I must put up " lighting rods;" no matter, give us any plan to prevent rot and mildew and we will try it - whether it be to dust the vines with sulphur, road dust, essential oils, or put up lightning rods; one writer suggests cedar posts as an antidote. I have over one hundred vines trained on these posts, and in addition used sulphur and road dust the past season to little purpose. Now, is there any sure remedy ? If so, give it to us; or must we, after having tasted the sweets of Ionas and Delawares, give up their cultivation and go down, down to Concords, Northern Muscadines, and Hartfords No - no, can't think of it; might as well go back to crab-apples and choke pears. So give us your remedies for mildew.

Yours truly, Eli Sperry.

North Billbrica, Mass., August 14, 1866.

Gentlemen: Your excellent Horticulturist comes to "Brightside" regularly, and works its way through our minds into the garden, making everything look better. I send you an article to-day, which I hope will prove acceptable.

Can you tell me what kills my winter squash vines? They grow splendidly up to a certain point, and then suddenly die. I find no worm at the root. What is it? My neighbors' vines are quite as mortal as my own. I manure with compost and then put on ashes. What ails these vines ? The roots look well. We must stop the disease, or stop raising the article. I plant the Hubbard, Marrowfat, and Canada Crook Neck, and the latter appear the best Very truly, yours, Elias Nason.

[We do not lay claim to being a scientific and practical entomologist, and therefore shall hand over the question of " What is it ?" to the capable editor of the Practical Entomologist. We have studied insects some, and have our belief of the insect depredation; but belief is not knowledge. We have had the same trouble with our squash vines, and particularly with the Hubbard variety, and one year lost nearly every vine. Now we practice covering the vine lightly with earth close up to the first blossom, and have generally succeeded in growing a crop of squashes. The injury to our vines has always been from the crown point to the blossomt - no injury or disease ever having shown itself in the roots.]

It has been stated that the cut-worm will not attack and destroy plants, cabbage, tomato, etc., that are transplanted into a shallow trench, say three or four inches deep. We have never tried it.

Young trees or limbs of trees that were budded last season should now be cut off leaving about four inches of the stem or limb beyond the bud, which should again be cut off close to the bud about the middle of June.