The terms "subsoiling" and "trenching" are frequently misunderstood as referring to the same operation. Subsoiling implies a mere stirring or loosening of the subsoil; whereas, trenching means a reversion of the surface and subsoil. By " surface soil/' we mean the top six or ten inches, usually cultivated with the plough or spade. Trenching is the most permanently useful process, as, if the subsoil is poor, it is thus brought to a position where it can be improved. Keeping the good soil at top, in order to encourage the roots of plants near the surface, is only half cultivation. It would be difficult to assign a limit to the extension of roots in a well drained, aerated, and thoroughly cultivated soil. On the contrary, we know that vegetation on such soils continues in luxuriance during the dryest and most parching seasons. This fact cannot be too prominently kept in view. Draining is the foundation of all improvement in culture. Draining tiles are now easily procured, and if your ground does not appear wet, and you dislike the word "draining," call them air tubes, and consider your object to be underground ventilation. Trenching should be performed in the autumn, that the winter frosts may pulverize and disintegrate the newly turned up soil.

It will seldom be found so pernicious as to be unproductive after such exposure, although subsoils abounding in oxides frequently require several winters to bring them into a congenial state; but such are exceptions.

Vegetable Garden #1

The practice of pinching out the points of growing plants, induces early maturity and increased productiveness. By cutting the tops off peas immediately after the first flowers open, the crop is hastened, and the individual plants send out lateral shoots, and the bearing season is lengthened. So also with tomatoes; topping each shoot just above the flower bunches, will make a difference of some days in the fruit ripening.

Spinach, lettuce and cauliflower, may have a cool and shaded aspect, to prolong their growth. In the sun they are apt to grow rapidly to seed.

To keep up a regular supply of vegetables throughout the season, care must be exercised in putting down successional crops. Make two or three sowings, at intervals of a few weeks, of such seeds as peas, beans, beet, carrot, cabbage, radishes, etc. For condiments, cookery, and other purposes, we append the following list, which may be had from the seed stores, and which may now be sown: Basil, anise, cardoons, dill, fennel, caraway, celeriao, finochio, marygold, marjoram, nasturtium, tansy, skirret, scurvy grass, savory, cress, chervil . and mustard.

Vegetable Garden #2

Seeds of the various cabbages for winter use should be sown, such as Savoys, Brussels sprouts, Cape Brocoli, flat Dutch cabbage, etc. Sweet corn, Lima beans, watermelons, sweet potatoes, and cantelopes, may also be attended to as early as the weather and soil will permit. A successful method of combating the striped bug, so injurious to the melon and cucumber tribes, consists in covering the hills with loose squares of glass. Four small wooden pegs are inserted in the ground, so as to inclose the hill of plants; a square of glass sufficiently large to cover them, is then laid on the pegs. This has been found as effectual in scaring the insects as the common contrivance of a small wooden box, without its defects. The plants are exposed on all sides to air and light, and the glass cover further prevents the soil being consolidated by heavy showers.

Young plants should not be allowed to crowd each other in the seed bed. Thin them out, so as to give space for each to be exposed to light and air. It is better to transplant in a sheltered border for two or three weeks, to produce a mass of fibrous roots, and if then carefully lifted and set out, will immediately start into vigorous growth. Before planting, make a furrow, with a hoe, three or four inches deep, and plant in it. The raised sides of the furrow will protect the plants for a time, and the first hoeing will level the soil over their roots.

Vegetable Garden #3

The beneficial effects of mulching to transplanted trees is well known, and very generally practised. Its effects in the vegetable garden are no less striking. The mowings of short lawn grass, rakings of leaves, &o., thrown around and over the roots of egg-plants, or between the rows of peas, and other crops, will be found of great service during dry weather. Previous to applying it, the soil should receive a deep hoeing, or forking up; if covered immediately afterwards, surface evaporation will be retarded, and the bad effects from heavy rains dashing on the surface prevented. Green vegetable matter, when used as above, should be spread very lightly; otherwise, injury may result from fermentation.

Thin out the rows of beets, carrots, parsnips, &o., as soon as the crops are fairly advanced; nothing is gained by deferring the operation too long, but much loss if the plants are crowded, as they will grow weak and slender; thin them to stand six inches apart.

Asparagus beds ought to be kept clean. Young plantations should not be cut very severely, as it will weaken the plants. The green portion only of this vegetable is fit for use; there is no occasion to cut below the surface with a view to getting it white. It is strange that white asparagus should ever be brought to market, and stranger still, that horticultural societies should award it a premium in preference to equally well-grown green samples. Water with salted rain-water, in the proportion of two ounces of salt to a gallon of water; this is preferable to sowing the salt over the plants.

Vegetable Garden #1

During dry seasons, there is frequently great difficulty experienced in the removing and setting out young cabbage plants, &o.; even although carefully watered and tended, many failures occur. Mankind instinctively resort to water as the great cure-all to diseased and languid vegetation; but it is seldom properly applied. No amount of water will cause a plant to grow that has been divested of its roots. Roots must first be encouraged before water becomes available. Plants that have been grown in a crowded seed bed, seldom come up with roots proportioned to the tops. They are, in fact, more like cuttings, and ought to be treated somewhat similarly. It is not expedient, on an extensive scale, to give each plant an atmosphere suited to its wants; therefore, the plants must be suited to the atmosphere, by diminishing the foliage. We have never found any difficulty in transplanting, when the leaves have been shortened or removed, and the roots puddled with soil. Even trees can be removed during the height of their growth, when treated in a similar manner, and many kinds more successfully than under any other circumstances.

Vegetable Garden #1

Both science and practice agree in the advantages resulting from a thorough pulverization of soils. Agriculturists are beginning to recognize this fact in their endeavors to discover some more efficient implement than the plough, and rotary diggers (suggested, many years ago, by Mr. Hoskyns, in his Chronicles of a Clay Farm) are now being experimented with. In like manner, horticulturists are preferring the digging-fork to the spade in all operations for which the latter is applicable. For all ordinary digging purposes, it is far superior to the spade, requiring less manual exertion; indeed, it can be operated so expeditiously, that it may economically supersede the hoe for destroying weeds, and cultivating between the rows of garden crops. I have used it for many years to stir and loosen the soil during summer, and have found great benefit from the practice. Weeds are kept under, and the soil left in a condition to absorb and contain rains - an important matter, as the sudden and heavy showers of summer run off by the surface, unless the soil is thus prepared.

Now is a good time to sow seeds of beet, etc, to supply tender vegetables late in the fall. Peas may still be sown; winter spinach, and "sprouts" for use next spring, should be sown this month; lettuces and cabbages may now be attended to. Keep the growing crops clean, and stir occasionally the soil round them, to prevent the surface from " baking".

Vegetable Garden #2

The perfection in celery is to have it well blanched; it is then sweet and crisp. It is sometimes recommended to grow it large and strong previous to blanching; no doubt large stalks will thus be obtained, but at the expense of quality. It must be-earthed up and blanched while it is. growing; after growth is completed, no amount of covering will whiten it. The main crop of turnips may be sown; sow them thin, and thin out to ten inches apart as soon as they get up. Good turnips cannot be had unless they have ample space to grow in.

Now is the proper time to arrange for next year's cropping. Ground for certain crops should be manured and dug over, unless on very sandy soils, which, we think, derive no benefit'from fall digging. For root-crops of all kinds we prefer to manure heavily in the fall, and plough or dig it in. Putrescent manure, applied at the time of sowing seeds of esextlent roots -as carrots, beets, etc - has a tendency to encourage root-fibres near the sur-face, detrimented to their longitudinal extension and consequent usefulness. Attend also to the rotation of crops, a -subject of much importance, and very imperfectly understood. It was at one time thought that chemistry, by acquainting us with the exact requirements of each crop would enable us to grow the same crop on the same ground for an indefinite parted, by annually applying the necessary ingredients,, and thus obviate any necessity for socpping. This, however, is not likely soon to be realised.

Strawberries may be planted yet. Prepare the ground by thorongh manuring and trenching. If planted in rows, let them be at least three feet apart. Strong growing kinds - as Longworth's Prolific and Boston Pine - should be at least eighteen inches from plant to plant in the rows, and the plants or hills kept distinct. When they are too much crowded, the plants may produce abundance of flower, but no fruit. Select young plants from healthy vines that are in a good bearing condition. Also see to planting a due proportion of staminate along with the pistillate varieties. After planting, spread a mulching of rotted manure between the rows, to keep the soil moist, and protect from frost when it arrives. Spent tan-bark is often useful for this purpose, and may be used as a substitute when it can be obtained. Old plantations should be well thinned out, that the buds for next year's crop may be well developed before the season's growth terminates.