(Grape-Votes.) 1. What time should grape-vines be trimmed? 2. When should the slips be set? 3. And what time should young plants be transplanted? Augustus Rice.

1. November is the best time to prune either native or foreign grape-vines. Plants absorb much nutriment by their roots during winter. By pruning at this time the buds that are retained have the benefit of the winter accumulation, and will, in consequence, grow more vigorously.

2. Native varieties are propagated by cuttings; collect these, when pruning, and cut them in lengths, each having three eyes or buds. Prepare them by cutting off close under the lower bud, and about one inch above the upper. Bury them in dry soil, and plant them as early as convenient in spring; choose a sheltered spot, and press the soil well about them.

Tender sorts are generally raised from single eyes, with about an inch of wood to each. They are planted in pots or shallow boxes, and placed in a hotbed, where there is Blight bottom heat. They root readily in this manner.

3. For several reasons, spring is the best season for transplanting in the Middle and Northern States. The roots should be carefully spread out, near the surface, and mulched with rotted leaves or manure during the summer. They should be pruned down to two buds, and the weakest of these rubbed off, after they begin to grow. Plants in pots may be set out at any time during spring or summer. One year old plants are preferred for transplanting, either in the vineyard or grapery.

(J. J. Delchamps.) With regard to your persimmon-trees, we should be inclined to witness such a fact before deciding. Your tamarind seeds came up " locust-trees" because none but a botanist could distinguish the difference in the pinnated leaf. Wait till they bear, if they ever do; the tamarind is a tropical fruit.

Toronto, U. C, Tenton Cottage, Dec. 20,1855. To the Editor of thr "Horticulturist." Sir: Would you have the kindness to state, at your earliest convenience, what may be considered the best twelve varieties of apples of the following: 12 table (autumn sort); 12 table (winter sort); ditto pears, and oblige Yours truly, J. D. Humphreys.

Best Twelve Autumn Apples

Autumn Pearmain, Clyde Beauty, Fall Pippin, Gravenstein, Hawley, Jefferis, Late Strawberry, Melon, Northern Sweet, Porter, Republican Pippin, Smoke House.

Best Twelve Winter Apples

Baldwin, Bailey Sweet, Esopus Spitzenberg, Hubbardston Nonsuch, Jonathan, Ladies' Sweeting, Monmouth Pippin, Northern Spy, Bed Canada, Rhode Island Greening, Swaar, Wagener.

Best Twelve Autumn Pears

Beurre d'AnJou, Beurre Clairgeau, Brandywine, Chancellor, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Doyenne Boussaok, Flemish Beauty, Kingsessing, Kirtland, Seekel, fyson, Urbanite.

Best Twelve Winter Pears

Beurre d'Aremberg, Beurre Raster, Beurre Gris d'Hiver Nouveau, Columbia, Cross, Doyenne d'Alencon, Glout Morceau, Lawrence, Passe Colmar, Prince's St. Germain, Vicar of Winkfield, Winter Nelis.

In regard to "cooking pears," which our correspondent asks about, we would remark that the finer table kinds are as suitable for culinary purposes as those that are good for nothing else. Then why cultivate varieties for the kitchen that are worthless for other purposes? The Pound Pear, however, keeps so well we must recommend it for this purpose.

(S. Miller.) Your invention we shall probably employ. The apples drawn have been described.

(Dr. C. Clark, Covington, Indiana.) The committee on the Mathews curculio remedy will probably never report, because they have nothing to say, as we understand it.

(A. N. Wylie, Chesterville, S. C.) 1. All the family of junipers or cedars graft very readily on each other. The mode most usually employed is that called wedge-grafting. Evergreens require more care under the operation than deciduous trees, and are operated on with the use of glass, as, when fully exposed to the open air, they are with difficulty prevented from drying up before a union takes place. In the open air, whip-grafting, with the end of the ' scion stuck in a potato, sponge, bottle of water, or anything that would give out moisture, would be the best mode of procedure. Half ripened wood must be employed for scions.

2. The Sequoia (Wellingtonia) gigantea and California cypress, can be had in the Philadelphia and Rochester nurseries, at about two dollars each - small plants of course. Capressus sempervirens we have seen in Philadelphia nurseries; it is not considered hardy enough for northern nurserymen. Your promised favors will be very welcome.

Answers To Correspondents #1

P. Q. R. and E. H. R., etc. etc. in our next.

S. L. Goodall's Catalogue, from Saco, Maine, with descriptions, is one of the best of its kind. It has illustrative engravings, and remarks of great interest to planters.

Answers To Correspondents #1

The Horticulturist is "put to press-" earlier in the month than formerly; partly owing to an increased edition, hut, mainly, that it may he issued with great punctuality; a point that is found to he very acceptable to its readers; consequently, answers to correspondents received after the middle of the month, and sometimes even earlier, may he crowded out by matter already in the hands of the printer. It is the wish and intention of the publisher to have the work in the hands of every agent, and at every post-office, by the first of the month.

' (C. M. M.) If you will watch an elm-tree making its growth the present year, you will notice that, if the season is moist and cool, the shoots will continue to lengthen till midsummer; but if, on the contrary, the season is a dry one, all growth will he over by the middle of June; simply because the moment the moisture in the soil fails, and the roots feel the effects of the sun, the terminal buds form at the end of each shoot, and then all growth for the season is over. We give you this as an illustration of the necessity of deepening your soil for your trees, so that the roots can go on growing in its cool, moist depths; and you will necessarily have tops also, with more growth in three years than otherwise in ten.

(M. X., Massachusetts.) The parsnip should not be grown in very rich soil, except the ground be dry and calcareous; its nutritive properties consist of ninety-nine parts in a thousand, of which nine parts are mucilage, the remaining portion being saccharine matter. In rich, damp soils, it acquires a rank taste, and is less sweet and agreeable than when grown on moderately poor soil.

(H. Collins, Auburn, N. Y.) The osage orange will succeed in the moderate shade you name, provided the soil is in good order; partial shade does not affect it much, but it is more hardy in the sun. See " an Experiment with the Osage Orange" in a late number; it is one of the most useful articles on the subject extant. If you can accomplish it, the hedge you want is, by all means, one of holly; if you succeed, it will be more to your lasting fame than a costly marble column.

Editor of the "Horticulturist": You will oblige me, and perhaps many others of the readers of your invaluable and interesting journal, by stating, 1. The cause of the dropping of the fruit of orange-trees when quite small. 2. The best remedy against it.

Most respectfully yours, C. W. Grau.

In order to answer these questions definitely, we would require to know the treatment the plants receive. Too much, or too little water at the roots, would cause the fruit to drop. The former is more frequently the cause. Insufficient drainage of the tubs or pots, improper soil, and unskilful watering, will produce disease, and, where fruit existed, it of course would speedily drop under these conditions.

You had better turn the plants out of their tubs, clear away most of the soil from their roots, put three inches of drainage in the tub, and repot in healthy, fresh soil (that procured from decayed sods is best.) Set them out of doors as soon as the weather will permit, where they will receive only four or five hours of morning sun; let the soil be kept simply moist; let your waterings be thorough, but only when necessary; so long as the soil appears damp, that is sufficient. In winter keep them dry; if placed in a cool, dark cellar, where there is no furnace, they will need no water from the 1st of December to the end of February, and, if kept in a greenhouse with other plants, they should merely receive sufficient water to prevent shrivelling of the bark.

(B., Massachusetts.) When your cedar of Lebanon cones arrive, instead of endeavoring to extract the seeds, try the experiment of planting the whole cone entire. Mr. Leroy, of Angers, finds they thus have just the necessary state of moisture; they germinate between the scales of the cone, of which latter, many fall to pieces of themselves. It is then easy to take them up and transplant them in the open air, or in pots, and place in a cool, north border. In this mode, which is the nearest approach to nature, nearly every fertile seed germinates. There is less difficulty in germinating these seeds than we formerly believed.

(W. W.) The Paulonnia imperialis has become an established favorite, both for its curious and fragrant flowers, and its seed-vessel on the tree all winter, and for its rapid growth. Plant one or two by all means. We have seen a shoot of one year's growth, 17 feet in length.

Dr. Esleman's Notes, next month.