Before commencing the actual calcimining, lightly rub over the whole of the ceiling with a piece of fine glass-paper, to take off any little knots or brush-hairs left on the finishing coat. Then dust the ceiling before proceeding to whiten it.

In laying on the wash, a large flat brush should be employed, and if this is not over-charged a ceiling or wall may, with a certain amount of care, be white or colorwashed with little or no splashing. The way to lay the distemper on is not to take up too much in the brush, and not to flick the brush at the end of each stroke, or you will splash everything. Work the brush in any direction, but be sure that every part of the ceiling is covered with the calcimine taking care to keep the edges of the patches going, that is, do not let any edge get dry before coming to it again. To do this, it is essential to have a scaffold that is easily movable from one end of the room to the other. The calcimining must be done very expeditiously, and any ceiling over 14 feet square should not be attempted single-handed without some previous practice.

Ceilings should always be calcimined by working away from the light. Two men are required to do a good-sized ceiling-flat; they should start at the window end, and, keeping their work in one general line, spread the distemper from the end as far towards the center as they can both conveniently reach. The scaffold is then brought forward and another shift covered, and so on until the whole ceiling is finished. The solvent used for distemper work being water, it will be seen that extreme heat or a draught of air, such as will evaporate the water, is to be avoided during the process, but so soon as a ceiling is completed, the object is to dry it off as quickly as possible, and hence it is well to open every door and window to create a draught.

Properly executed distempering should have a level, but not perfectly smooth, surface, which should show no joints or coarse brush-markings, and should have a perfectly dead appearance, be solid and uniform throughout, and should not rub off by ordinary wear or leaning against.

Distemper of any kind should never be spread over old or dirty stuff, these should be first washed off. An expert will not flap his brush in working well-made distemper, but will use the tip of the brush only, and make very little noise. Calcimine or any distemper can be laid on in any direction from the outer or working edge. Splashes result from the use of watery wash and want of experience in working.

A distemper brush should be worn off a trifle before being used to whiten a ceiling. The work of washing off a ceiling will be sufficient to wear down a new brush to a fit condition. After the brush is done with, wash it out thoroughly and lay it by, before attempting to use it, soak it in water, or the hairs may fall out, through it being too dry. This last caution applies to nearly all brushes used in house decorating.

If there is a delicate ornamental cornice in the room that cannot be got at with the ordinary distemper brush, a smaller brush, called a distemper tool, is used both for the washing off and whitening. In the whitening, push this brush up into the ornamented parts. It does not much matter how the distemper is laid so long as it is put on evenly, and all the surface covered.

There appears to be an idea that a new ceiling requires some special treatment before it is calcimined, but this is not so. Providing that the ceiling has been left by the plasterer in a proper condition, it is a more simple job than whitening an old one, on account of there being no washing-off or making-good to do. The most ordinary cause of failure is that the ceilings are not thoroughly dry before the whitewash is put on. If there is the least sign of sweating or moisture on the ceiling, it may be taken to indicate that the ceiling is not dry, and if this is so, no amount of care in making or putting on the calcimine will make the ceiling white. Another cause of failure may be due to the fact that some people do not consider it necessary to finish a new ceiling. This is also a mistake, for the finish stops absorption, and if there is a little whiting in it, it helps to cover, and, moreover, makes the distempering a much easier job, as it prevents it dragging, and, to use a painter's term, the distemper spreads like butter.

The addition of a little alum is also an improvement to the finish.

The following is a brief list of tints that are most usually required on ceilings and the method of producing them:

Cream

A variety of cream colors of different shades and hues are produced by mixing ochre, which gives a yellowish cast. A little umber or Venetian red may also be added.

Gray

A nice effect is produced by a gray ceiling, especially when the walls are highly colored. Blue black is the best for the purpose.

Green

Very light greens look very pretty, but if they are too dark the effect is wholly spoiled. A variety of lime greens are made suitable for mixing with lime, and a very small quantity will be required. A touch of blue black may also be added when a neutral green is required.

Pink

A little Venetian red gives a nice pink, but if something more pronounced is required lake may be used.

Blue

A large variety of blue tints can be obtained by using the color sold under the name of "lime blue." These blues are really a variety of ultramarine.

Browns

Very light browns may be obtained by using sienna or umber or a mixture of both.

Almost as great a variety of colors in distemper may be obtained as in oil colors, but certain colors cannot be used with whiting at all. The following is a list of them: Prussian blue, Antwerp blue, Naples yellow, vermilion, lakes and chrome yellows. White lead and red lead are also unsuitable for the purpose.

For all ordinary distemper work one of the many sanitary distempers which are to be obtained in a wide range of colors is recommended. They are sold in dry form, and require but the addition of water to* render them ready for use.

The secret of success in applying distemper is to get as much on the surface as possible without making a mess or splashing any of it on the walls and floor. The brush must be used smoothly, and not slapped against the work! Dip fairly deeply and squeeze out some of the calcimine. Then apply all around as far as the brush will reach. Be very careful not to go over the work a second time. Distemper is unlike oil paint. If it does not look satisfactory when applied, the only thing to be clone is to wash off and commence again. It is usually necessary to have a stick in the pail with which to occasionally stir up the mixture.