(1) Make a strong lather with curd soap and warm water; lay the glove flat on a board, the bottom of a dish, or other unyielding surface: dip a piece of flannel in the lather and well rub the glove with it till all the dirt is out, turning it about so as to clean it all over. Dry in the sun or before a moderate fire. When dry they will look like old parchment, and should be gradually pulled out and stretched. (2) Have a small quantity of milk in a cup or saucer, and a piece of brown Windsor or glycerine soap in another saucer. Fold a clean towel or other cloth 3 or 4 times thick, and spread the glove smoothly on the cloth. Dip a piece of flannel in the milk, and rub it well on the soap. Hold the glove firmly with the left hand, and rub it with the flannel towards the fingers. Continue this operation until the glove, if white, appears of a dirty yellow; or if coloured, until it looks dirty and spoiled, and then lay it to diy. Gloves cleaned by this method will be soft, glossy, and elastic. (3) French method: Put the gloves on your hands and wash them in spirits of turpentine until they are quite clean, rubbing them exactly as if washing your hands; when finished, hang them in a current of air to dry and to take off the smell of the turpentine. (4) Eau de Javelle, 135 parts; ammonia, 8; powdered soap, 200; water, 150. Make a soft paste, and use with a flannel.
(5) Take out the grease spots by rubbing them with magnesia or with cream of tar. Then wash them with soap dissolved in water as directed for kid gloves, and afterwards rinse them, first in warm water and then in cold. Dry in the sun, or before the fire.
All gloves are better and more shapely if dried on glove trees or wooden hands.
(1) Wet the surface of the glass with gin, to remove the stains. Then rub with a cloth dipped in powdered blue. Polish with a silk handkerchief. Be very careful not to touch the frames. (2) Very soft paper is much better than cloth.
Wash with a large, soft, woollen cloth and lukewarm or cold water, dry thoroughly with a soft cloth, and afterwards polish with milk, or a weak solution of beeswax, in spirits of turpentine. Never use a brush, or hot water, or soap, as either will be certain to bring off the paint.
(1) Dissolve 1/2 oz. glue, and a bit of soft-soap the size of a walnut, in about 3 pints of warm water, and with a well-worn whitewash brush well scrub the work, but not sufficient to get off the paint, and rinse with plenty of cold clean water, using a washleather; let it dry itself. Werk done in this manner will often look equal to new. (2) First take off all the dust with a soft brush and pair of bellows. Scour with a mixture of soft-soap and fullers' earth, and use lukewarm water. If there are any spots which are extra dirty, first remove these by rubbing with a sponge dipped in soap and water. Commence the scouring at the top of the door or wainscot, and proceed downwards; and dry with a soft linen cloth. When cleaning paint, it is always better to employ two persons, one to scour and the other to rub dry.
To soften brushes that have become hard, soak them 24 hours in raw linseed oil, and rinse them out in hot turpentine, repeating the process till clean; or wash them in hot soda and water and soft-soap.
(1) Dissolve a little common soda in urine, then add a grated potato and a little salt; well rub this over the paintings till clean. Wash off in spring water, and dry with a clean cloth. (2) First rub the picture well with good whisky, which will make the varnish come off in froth, then wash well with cold water, and when dry varnish again; this will restore the picture to its original colour unless very old. Keep the picture covered from dust till the varnish is dry.
(3) Elfred Blaker's process of restoring oil paintings is thus described in Scientific Industries Explained: - The process may be divided into 4 heads: (1) Lining, (2) Stopping, (3) Cleaning, (4) Stippling or restoring proper.
Strong soap and water is good for cleaning alabaster; if too much discoloured make a paste with quicklime and water, cover the article well with it, and let it remain all day; wash off with soap and water, rubbing hard the stains. Or apply dilute muriatic acid having previously washed off dirt and grease.
Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 6 oz. rottenstone, 1/2 oz. gum arabic, all in powder, 1 oz. sweet oil, and sufficient of water to make a paste. Apply a small portion,and rub dry with a flannel or leather. (See also ii. 1ll, 114.)
Mix tripoli and linseed oil, and dip felt into the preparation. With this polish. If the wood - be rosewood or ebony, polish it with finely-powdered elder ashes, or make a polishing paste of rottenstone, a pinch of starch, sweet oil, and oxalic acid, mixed with water.
Put the engraving on a smooth board, cover it thinly with common salt finely pounded; squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a considerable portion of it; elevate one end of the board, so that it may form an angle of about 45 or 50 degrees with the horizon. Pour on the engraving boiling water from a teakettle, until the salt and lemon-juice be all washed off; the engraving will then be perfectly clean, and free from stains. It must be dried on the board, or on some smooth surface, gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, it will be tinged with a yellow colour. (See also ii. 115.)
For cleaning the hands when stained with chemicals: - Put 1/4 lb. glauber salts, 1/4 lb. chloride of lime, and 4 oz. of water into a small wide-mouth bottle, and when required for use pour some of the thick sediment into a saucer and rub it well over the hands with pumice or a nail brush. Stains of nitrate of • silver may be removed from the hands by means of a solution of chloride of iron.
The stains of grease and paint may be removed from hats by means of turpentine, and if the turpentine leaves a mark finish with a little spirits of wine.
Common jewellery may be effectually cleaned by washing with soap and warm water, rinsing in cold water, dipping in spirits of any kind, and drying in warm boxwood sawdust. Good jewellery only needs washing with soap and water, and polishing with rouge and a chamois leather.
Mix up a quantity of the strongest soap-lees with quicklime, to the consistence of milk, and lay it on the stone for twenty-four hours; clean it afterwards, and it will appear as new.
This may be improved by rubbing afterwards with fine putty powder and olive oil. (See also ii. 125.)
Mix 1/2 pint of neat's-foot oil, and 1/2 gallon of spirit of turpentine; wet a woollen rag with some of this and put on it a little powder, made thus: - Take 2 oz. green copperas and 1/2 oz. sub-carbonate of potash, burn these together in a clay vessel for a quarter of an hour in the fire, when it should be reduced to an impalpable powder for use. Having put the powder in the oiled part of the rag, well rub the metal; wipe off with a soft cloth, and polish with a dry leather and some more powder.
Soak them in hot water in which bran has been boiled, with a little salts of tartar and alumn, rubbing gently between the hands when the heat will admit of it. When the water is cold, renew the application till any discoloration is removed, rinse in lukewarm water; lay them on white paper in a dark place to cool.
Wash with a sponge or a soil leather and water, and dry by rubbing with a silk handkerchief. When the picture is very dirty, take it out of its frame, procure a clean towel, and making it quite wet, lay it on the face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to time with clear soft water; let it remain wet for two or three days; take the cloth off and renew it with a fresh one; after wiping the picture with a clean wet sponge, repeat the process till all the dirt is soaked out; then wash it well with a soft sponge, and let it quite dry; rub it with some clear nut or linseed oil. Spirits of wine and turpentine may be used to dissolve the hard old varnish, but they will attack the paint as well as the varnish if the further action of the spirits is not stopped at the proper time by using water freely.
Take an ounce each of cream of tartar, muriate of soda, and alum, and boil in a gallon or more of water. After the plate is taken out and rubbed dry, it puts on a beautiful silvery whiteness. Powdered magnesia may be used dry for articles slightly tarnished, but if very dirty it must be used first wet and then dry.
(6) Use a solution of cyanide of potassium, 12 oz. cyanide to 1 quart water; immerse the silver, brush it with a stiff brush until clean, wash and dry.
Unslaked lime is a capital thing to clean steel articles with. If steel ear-rings, brooches, etc, are kept in powdered quicklime, they suffer very little from rust. They should be carefully cleaned when put away, to remove any moisture that may have collected on them by handling.
To clean swords, etc., rub them with powdered brick-dust and oil, rub dry with brick-dust, polish with crocus and leather. (See also ii. 123.)