This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Smelts stewed in white stock with herbs and wine.
The fish trussed in ring-form, with their tails in their mouths, and fried; built up in the dish, garnished with fried parsley; butter sauce served aside. Smelts are also broiled, plainly, and either broiled or fried are served with tomato sauce or tartar sauce, and also as a garnish with larger fish.
Clean, scale, wash, and dry the smelts; boil them in equal quantities of vhite wine and water, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, and season with salt, pepper, and 1/2 lemon peeled and sliced; when done, dish up covered with the following sauce: Take 2 tumblerfuls of white wine, a lump of butter mixed with a little flour, salt, pepper, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 head of garlic blanched and pounded, and chopped parsley and chives; warm in a saucepan and pour over the fish.
Place in a china fire-proof dish, pour over them a sauce made with fish or veal stock, chopped onions, capers, and fine herbs, and a little chablis wine; let them cook in the oven till tender, and serve in the same dish. Always cut off the head for this mode of dressing smelts.