This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
The frog is one of the regular kinds of meat now kept in stock in all good restaurants during the season, which is fall and winter. The legs are eaten of two kinds or more: the small green marsh frog, which is supposed to be the better, and the large bull frog, which attains to the size of a squirrel in the south. In the course of business it is found that the larger frog's legs have the readiest sale; they resemble chicken in appearance and taste. From 4 to 6 pairs of legs of the large sort is a restaurant portion - 12 to 18 pairs of the small. Frogs are caught with a rod and line. A bait of grub or snail being tied to the line instead of a hook, it is trailed along the surface, and the frog springs and swallows it. They are caught also by shooting with an arrow attached to a string, and in nets drawn along the margin of the pond. When caught, they are skinned; the body is thrown away; the legs with enough of the spine to hold the two together are reserved for cooking. In the New Orleans markets, however, may be seen frogs of the very largest size exhibited for sale alive in cages, where they are evidently fed and fattened for market.
At the same stalls may be seen frogs skinned and hung up in pairs, looking like white-meated squirrels of the medium size, and-not the legs alone, but the entire body, giving evidence that the entire frog is esteemed eatable by some customers at least.
The feet chopped off, the legs are held in convenient shape by thrusting one stump into the meat of the other leg, steeped an hour in water containing vinegar; washed and placed in a saucepan with onion, carrot, celery, a clove, herbs, pepper, salt, and water to cover; stewed about 3/4 of an hour. The frogs taken up, the broth strained and thickened with flour and butter; finished with yolks and cream, not boiled; butter, lemon juice and parsley.
Made of 2 quarts good, seasoned veal-broth and hind-quarters of 3 doz. small frogs cooked in it; frogs taken up, mashed to a paste with breadcrumbs; puree strained back into the soup; yolks of eggs to thicken.
Frogs' bones; name of a sweet cracker sold in Paris.