This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Batter puddings made with much eggs and little flour, some cream, the whites beaten light and stirred in; boiled in bowls or in a floured pudding-bag; served as soon as taken up; eaten with an acid sauce, like raspberry vinegar, or lemon juice and sugar.
Neatly poached eggs on toast, with a thin white mushroom sauce poured over all.
A couple of travelers stopping at the Hotel Francaise, in the city of Cordova, the capital of the Argentine Confederation, were surprised and amused by noticing on the bill of fare "eggs on horseback." Determined to know what it meant they called for the equestrian dish, when a steak "topped" with two eggs was placed on the table.
One ostrich egg for ten guests is the pattern at the California ostrich farm. "One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten," said Dwight Whiting, counting the guests he had invited to spend the day at the ostrich farm with him. " I guess one egg will be enough," and having given utterance to this expression he wended his way to the paddock and soon brought to the house an ostrich egg. For a whole hour it was boiled, and though, there was then some misgivings as to its being cooked, the shell was broken, for curiosity could no longer be restrained, and a three-pound hard-boiled egg laid upon the plate. But aside from its size there was nothing peculiar about it.
A correspondent asks: "Can you tell me what use to make of surplus yolks of eggs? You do not mention but one kind of cake made with yolks. I am employed in a fine bakery or confectionery and sometimes have several quarts of yolks left over in a week and have to throw them away spoiled." Answer: If you were doing hotel work you would find, on the contrary, the whites would be left over, there being so many more uses for the yolks. The yolk contains all the richness of the egg, and gives color, flavor and smoothness to puddings, creams, custards, and sweet sauces, better alone than with the whites mixed in. We use the yolks also in fish sauces, salad dressings, in potato and other croquettes, also minced for an ornamental garnish, mixed with flour for "noodles," and with batter for another kind of soup, also thicken soups with them, instead of flour and starch, and steam yolks in bulk like a cake, then cut up and use them as we would chicken meat for patties. We rub cooked yolks through a sieve, making a sort of vermicelli, to serve with some dish, and we drop them whole, also, in soup to substitute turtle eggs.
We cut them up and mix with chicken meat, mushrooms and sauce to fill the shells of fried bread with, and if there are any raw yolks left over after that, we mix them in the waffle batter. In a good bakery you will find nearly as many uses for this, the best part of the egg, no matter how many may be left over from your using the whites in meringues, macaroons, icing, etc., for the yolks may be mixed with water and used the same as whole eggs. Take a pint measure about two-thirds full of yolks, fill it up with water and you have a pint »f eggs, which is a pound, or equal to 10 eggs, and the mixture of yolks and water can be used in making almost any sort of cakes, the only difference observable being that they are yellower and richer than if whole eggs are employed. In this way you can utilize the yolks in all sorts of small cakes, in French coffee cakes, buns, rusks, brioches, and in the sorts of sponge.cakes and jelly rolls which are made light with powder instead of whipped whites. If you make ice creams, they alone - that is the fancy kinds - should use up all of that material you can have to spare, and another good purpose to put surplus egg yolks to, is to mix them with lemon or orange syrup and a little butter, and stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens, making lemon or orange butter or cheese-cake mixture.