This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
In Vienna a mighty fair is kept open on the green sward of the Wurstl-Prater, or Sausage-Park, throughout the spring, summer, and autumn months of every year.
Park daily teems with diversions, music, and mirth. Excellent beer, and plain inexpensive edibles, are dispensed to the public at half a dozen spacious wooden pavilions, surrounded by scores of strong tables and chairs, amongst which meander the itinerant vendors of sausage, for the most part Italians, whose privilege of selling their toothsome wares in this part of the Prater first endowed the people's pleasaunce with its predicate of "Wurstl." From these active and vociferous merchants may be purchased every variety of the "far-cimentum" so dear to Germans and Italians alike, under the names of mettwurst, salami, leberzvurst, mortadella, bratwurst, blufwurst, Frankfuerter, and a dozen other sorts of highly-flavored, thirst-creating compounds of meat, spice, and garlic.
"Mutton Sausages. I have had the recipe for mutton sausages given me. It seems good and feasible; but I have not tried it yet. These sausages could be introduced into hotels and private families; but I would not recommend their introduction to the public through the medium of restaurants or shops. The public only admit the existence and possibility of five sausages at present; viz., pork, beef, German, saveloys, and black puddings, and they will look with great suspicion on the other fifty or sixty varieties if offered to them".
The sausages of Bologna, which are almost as highly appreciated as those of Strasburg, are made with 10 lbs. of fresh pork, chopped, and mixed with half the quantity of bacon, the whole being seasoned with salt, saltpetre, pepper, and herbs, and afterwards put in a well-closed bladder. I he sausage is next steeped in brine for from 10 to 12 days. It is ready to eat after having been boiled for 2 or 3 hours.
The famous sausages of Hamburg, which are known in all parts of Europe, and are made in large quantities, are manufactured from the lean flesh of the pig and the ox, chopped, and mixed together with fresh pork.
In making German sausage, a quantity of the second quality of pork - that which is welt interlarded with fat - is chopped up; but not so finely as in the previous instances. It is then seasoned with parsley, cinnamon, bay-leaves, pepper - both in the grain and in powder - and spices. When the mixture is ready for filling, it is passed into skins prepared from the intestines of calves, and divided into sausages of about four inches in length. These are then exposed to smoke for a week, and, before being eaten, are boiled in water for half an hour. In some instances, pea-meal, the meal of French beans, and lentils, are used for mixing with the sausage-meat. Cochineal is also added by some makers, in order to produce the tint which is so well known. In the south of France, sausages of this kind are made with the addition of garlic.
The flat sausage, or crepi-nelte, although it does not keep so well as the other kinds, is more delicious in its fresh state. It is made with the same mixture as that above described, but, instead of introducing the meat into the sausage-skin, it is enveloped in a piece of the caul of the pig. The sausage is flat and oblong in shape, and is either cooked upon the stove or the gridiron.
Patty or "gem" pans lined with short pie-paste, half filled with sausage-meat, lid of paste put on, egged over, baked.
Take large raw potatoes, cut out a cork-shaped piece and remove part of the inside sufficient to contain half a sausage divested of its skin, and bake till done. (See Potatoes, Georgette [a la], and Bignon).