This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
A great deal of watered lard is now sold branded "pure," and consumers should be on their guard against this imposition. A very simple test of purity is to drop a small piece of lard into a hot fire. If pure it burns smoothly, like oil; if watered it crackles and splutters. Watered lard is unnaturally white, and is colder to the tongue than pure lard. Buyers of refined lard should ask for a guarantee that it is absolutely free from water. Lard is very much sophisticated in other ways. The dealers offer three or more grades, not pretending that they are pure. Manufacturers testified before a committee of congress that about one third of the lard sold is composed of cotton-seed oil, combined with beef stearine and chemicals. The refined oil is as good as lard for some purposes, such as frying, but ought to be at a lower price than lard. Stewards who wish to have lard used for making pastry, should buy the firmest and best, as soft lard is useless for that purpose.
An edible seaweed. In Ireland it is called "sloke," is cooked like spinach and is also fried in bacon fat after boiling; it is best to have a porcelain saucepan to cook it in as it acts upon metals, but is wholesome nevertheless.
A Richfield Springs confectioner and restaurant-keeper is making and selling by the pound a cake which he calls lawn-tennis cake. It is a sort of Genoa cake iced over the surface and covered thickly with chopped pistachios.
Leeks are very good served on toast as asparagus. Trim the leeks and cut away the green till there is little left but the white part; clean thoroughly, and boil till tender. Pour good melted butter over them and serve very hot.
"The leek was a favorite ingredient in the 'cockie leekie,' of which James I. is reported to have been so fond, that he retained his preference for it, notwithstanding all the dainties of London cookery".
A soup made same way as with onions.
Leeks cooked like asparagus and served with meat gravy.