This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
The ordinary headings are soup, fish, boiled, roasts, entrees, vegetables, cold dishes, pastry, dessert. That is for common life without any pretentions to style, and the order of arrangement is as the people generally want it, in that order they take their dinner. And here it may as well be explained that pastry is not properly called dessert, although it is the general custom to apply the term dessert to all the sweets which constitute the second service of the dinner. "Pastry and dessert" Is the most convenient foim as it admits everything, but "dessert" alone means fruit, confectionery, very light sweets and ices. But where something above the ordinary is desired, when the meals and the menu are intended for something above the run of common life, more divisions appear and more headings. The first example menu and the second are alike in one particular, they make the "Boiled" appear before the "Entrees" and the "Roast" after them, and the second uses the word "Releve" instead of "Boiled," as would be the case in the first example were headings used in It at all.
This arrangement Is Immaterial and merely a matter of literary taste, as the people for whom the dinner Is prepared nearly always take all their meats, whether boiled, roasted, entrees or game, at one and the same time, and the vegetables of their choice with them. If the third example menu were properly strung out and the headings inserted, it would show cold hors d'ceuvres, soup, hot hors d'ceuvres, fish, releves, entrees, sorbet, roasts, game, salad, and cold dishes, vegetables, pastry, dessert, thirteen headings besides cheese and coffee, which usually go as distinct items without headings, but which nevertheless make up the thirteen courses into which such a dinner can be divided. The Victoria menu is faulty in respect to mixing the hot. and cold hors d'ctuvres or side dishes. Ojsters raw, although somewhatof an American specialty, are but one of the cold hors d 'ceuvres, or appetizers, preliminary to the meal and no more entitled to stand alone than the others, "French Sardines - Saucisson d'Arles - Celery and Queen Olives," which all strictly belong in the same place as the oysters. The hot hors d'ceuvres belong where the one in that bill appears; it is the "Fondu of Cheese on Toast," or Welsh rarebit.
All of this style is, however, felt to be very cumbersome; it is difficult to handle all these formalities in strict propriety and the sensible thing is to drop the superfluities - there is no use for the hot hors d'teuvre, except in a formal course dinner, and that being omitted, such side dishes as sliced tomatoes, olives and celery are placed after the soup instead of it.
Complimentary banquet given by Mr. Alder-man Whitehead to Major and Sheriff Davies and a large number of the inhabitants of Cheap-ward, at the Guildhall Tavern, London, on the 26 of October. The catering was up to Messrs. Ritter & Clifford's best form, and the menu as follows:
Vino de Pasto.
Veuve Clicquot, 1880.
Piper's Tres Sec, 1880.
Perinet et Fils, 1880.
Pommery et Greno, 1880.
Claret. Chateau la Rose.
Sandeman's Old Port.