The above very excellent bill is strictly in accord with the opinions and teachings of the hotel press, unless an exception be taken to the cigar line at the bottom, and particularly so in regard to the small number of dishes, the absence of "relishes," and the absence of headings. Here is an example from a hotel in the extreme South, but under New York management and running at four dollars a day, which uses headings and includes "relishes," and there are good reasons on this side of the question, too.

From 6 To 8. Monday, March 16, 1883

Soup

St. Germaine. Consomme Printanier Royal.

Fish

Boiled Sea Bass, Sauce Hollandaise.

Potatoes Parisienne.

Releve

Corned Beef and Cabbage.

Entrees

Becassines en Salmi a l'Ancienne.

Fricandean of Veal, Bourgeoise.

Spaghetti au Gratin, Piemontaise.

Chocolate Fritters, Vanilla Sauce.

Roast

Bibs of Beef. Ham, Champagne Sauce.

Young Turkey, Stuffed.

Game

Brant with Jelly.

Vegetables

Boiled Potatoes. Mashed Turnips.

Green Peas. Baked Sweet Potatoes.

Relishes

Horse Radish. Gherkins. White Onions.

Chow-Chow. Lettuce. Olives.

Pastry And Dessert

Steamed Raisin Pudding, Brandy Sauce.

Apple Pie. Pound Cake. Chocolate Slices.

Jelly Drops. Lemon Sherbet.

Apples. Oranges. Asorted Nuts. Raisins.

Roquefort, Edam and Orange Co. Cheese.

Crackers.

Coffee. Tea.

Waiters an furnished with Wine Cards.

All Dishes not on the Bill of Fare, and all Fruit or Lunch taken from Table will be charged extra.

Guests having friends to meals will please register at office.

Breakfast from 7 to 10; Sunday from 8 to 11.

The writer of these lines prefers to use headings, always writes his bills that way, considering that the hotel is an inn, a caravansary where people come as strangers, and the ways of the house should be made as plain as possible for them. Very few of these transients are "gastronomically educated," few of them, comparatively, have ever ordered from a bill of fare, and with a waiter standing by waiting for them to speak, they have trouble enough to order their meal intelligently even with the help of plain headings; the bill without headings must seem like a mass of dishes thrown together without order and without a purpose. Witness the following bill without headings, divisions or spaces, as it is found in a New York hotel paper. Possibly the original was better looking.

Victoria Hotel

Blue Point Oysters.

Creme a la Windsor Consomme Napolitaine.

Fondu of Cheese on Toast French Sardines.

Saucisson D'Aries Celery Queen Olives.

Boiled Redsnapper, Sauce Fiamande.

Potatoes Nature! Sautees au Beurre.

Turkey Boiled, Celery Sauce Smoked Jowl with sauerkraut Loin of veal stuffed, Sauce.

Aniialouse.

Sirloin of Beef larded a la Lithuanienne.

Lamb Chops Farandale.

Rice Croquettes with Apricots.

Sherbet au Citron.

Ribs of Beef Capon, Giblet Sauce Saddle of Mutton Spare Ribs of Deerfoot farm pork, Apple Sauce Red head Duck with Orange Marmalade.

Salads

Chicken Mayonnaise Lobster Potato.

Lettuce.

Pate de Foie Grass Truffe Boned Chicken with Jelly.

Plain Lobster Tongue Etc.

Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatoes Boiled Onions.

Rice Peas Beets Spinach Baked Sweet.

Potatoes Squash Fried Oyster Plant.

Spaghetti Italienne.

Rice Pudding, Port Wine S-iuce.

Cocoanut Pie, Green Gage Pie, Almond Slices,

Gateaux Boston Cream Cakes Wine Jelly.

Vanilla Ice Cream.

Nuts Raisins Figs Fruits.

American, Rouquef ort, Brie and Neuf chatel Cheese cafe.

The reason given for omitting headings from the bill of fare is that it is more "tony" to do without them Their absence implies a compliment to the guests by the supposition that they are "gastronomically educated," that they do know the proper order of dishes and the locality in which to look for them without any guiding signs. It will be seen, then, that the bill without headings is proper for select family hotels, but not best for commercial hotels, railroad depot hotels, nor for the generality of resort houses. And if the bill without headings is desired in such establishments, the dishes should be few as in our first sample menu, so that they may be comprehended at once and the dinner selected with ease even by a stranger to hotel customs.