This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
The purpose in learning to make underclothing is threefold: (1) To gain an understanding of economic values through the purchase and handling of materials, (2) to learn to appreciate and express through this medium, a feeling for simplicity of design and daintiness of attire, and (3) to acquire, through technical processes, skill and speed in the use of materials and equipment.
While there is much that is new to be learned on each garment, at the same time, some of the processes are very similar; for instance, the making of seams, certain finishes, and the application of trimmings. The making of each garment will be treated independently, but it has seemed best to set down in outline form the points to which attention must be directed in the planning and making of undergarments. Explanation of processes which may be exactly the same in two or more garments, as in the case of seams or decoration, will precede the problems of construction. For the sake of those who may have forgotten, or may not have had instruction in fundamental stitches, a brief review of these and their uses will be given, in order that the directions for the construction of the garments themselves may be more intelligently followed.
Following is an outline of the points to be considered, and the steps to be followed in making undergarments:
1. Types of garments
3. Suitable trimming
4. Suitable patterns
Purchase quantity cost
II. Constructive processes:
(a) Tools and equipment for
1. Pattern making
(b) Stitches (review)
Review of those previously learned to be applied to new problems
(c) Cutting garments.......
1. Preparation of material
4. Marking seams
1. Pinning seams
2. Sewing seams
1. Adjusting to figure
Two raw edges overcast
Seam stitched; turned within; second stitching
Corset covers (entre-deux, use of)
Underbodices (entre-deux, use of)
Stitched; one edge trimmed, other turned twice;
Flannel fell, flat finish
Second edge stitched once, catch-stitched down Flannel petticoats
(a) Lower edges...
2. Faced or False
Straight or Shaped edge
Hemming, running Machine stitching Feather or chain stitching Fagoting
(2) Scalloping banding
1. Embroidered scallops
2. Bias bands same material
(for plain petticoats)
(3) Ruffles and flounces..
1. Straight a. Gathered b. Tucked
Flounce or dust ruffle
Gathered silk or satin for petticoats
3. Circular a. Single for drawers b. Sectional for petticoats a. Tucking b. Banding
2. Lace embroidery .
a. Edging b. Insertion c. Entre-deux
4. Machine stitching
1. Box plaits
1. Corset cover
1. Corset cover
3. Night-gown (left hand side for buttons)
Hem and fly for buttons and buttonholes
5. Narrow hems each side petticoat opening
(a) Corset cover
Visible and invisible fastening
2. Two piece
(a) Corset cover, armhole
Open, to finish edge and top
Silk, lower edge and waist line
4. Hooks and eyes
5. Snap fasteners
(c) Waist line..
1. Disposal of fulness