This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
The brains of all domestic animals are eaten and considered a luxury. The brains of ostriches and peacocks were among the rare and costly delicacies at the famous banquets of the ancients. Nearly all kinds obtained in our roarkets are by a harmless fiction classed as calves' brains, they being regarded the best, as they certainly are for a neat and compact appearance after cooking in slices; but any others do as well for the various chopped-up forms. Tubs and barrels full of brains are sent out by the pork packers; there are shops in some parts of the city where the retailing of brains is a specialty; they are put up in ten cents' portions in wooden butter dishes and sold by hundreds daily. Ox brains are equally plentiful certain seasons and are easily obtainable at all times from the dealers in fancy meats who advertise to supply hotels and restaurants.
(1)-The brains are parboiled, pressed slightly; when cold, sliced, seasoned, dipped in flour, broiled and buttered. (2)-Calves' Brains en Brochette - Boiled brains in small pieces of even size run upon skewers, seasoned, dipped in egg and cracker dust and cooked on the gridiron. Must be previously boiled in salted water and made cold. Served on the skewers if they are of silver or plated.
Lambs' or sheep's brains boiled first in milk, chopped, mixed with bread crumbs, yolk of eggs, little cream, chopped parsley, salt, pepper; made into flattened cakes, breaded and fried; served on a napkin with fried parsley.
In England the brain of a rabbit is a tit-bit for a lady.
Brains boiled 10 minutes, broken up with raw eggs and scrambled in frying pan.
Same as the last.
Boiled, cut in slices and arranged in a circle with Ravigote sauce in center.
Brains chop ped, made into sort of rich paste with butter, bread crumbs, eggs and seasonings, made out in ball or roll shapes when cold; breaded and fried.
Brains soaked in vinegar, pepper and salt, dipped in batter, and fried.
The best way is scrambled with eggs and served in deep dishes by spoonfuls to each guest. (See Cervelles).