This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
In the Toulouse district, famous for its geese, those birds are never roasted or baked, being for the most part treated as follows: They are cut into pieces and put on a good fire in a copper vessel with a proper addition of salt. When cooked they are laid in pots and covered with fat. This is called sale d'oie, or salted goose, and is found in every house in the district.
In a dinner made up principally of the bird, which is - or was in the days of James and Horace Smith - "uncommon common on a.common": "Dish No. 2, if not exactly a mystery, was at least a gastronomic revelation to those who had never tasted a goose stuffed with truffles and olives two days before cooking, then roasted and served with rich brown gravy and potato straws. The third dish was simply a boiled goose served with the accompaniments of pickled pork, celery sauce and vegetables. The fourth dish brought to light a roast goose stuffed with chestnuts and apples (in the German fashion), and eaten with brown gravy and saute" potatoes. The fifth and last dish was also a roast goose, with a savory lining of veal stuffing served with rich gravy, peas a la Francaise, and mashed potatoes. By the time justice had been done to this repast, the cry went round, ' not too much goose, but just goose enough.
Sage and onion stuffing is the general accompaniment of roast goose. If a strong flavor of onion is liked, the onions should be chopped raw; if this is not the case, they should be boiled in one, two or three waters, and mixed with a large or small quantity of bread-crumbs. Truss the goose firmly, tie the openings securely, place it in a deep pan with water enough to prevent burning, and a little drippings, cover with a buttered paper; baste continuously until done. A goose is both unwholesome and unpalatable if insufficiently cooked. When done, take it up, remove the skewers and fastenings, pour gravy round it and send apple sauce to table with it. The time required to cook a medium-sized goose is from one honr to one hour and a half.
Stuffed with pork sausage meat extra high seasoned and mixed with bread-crumbs; braised in covered vessel with white wine and broth, and aromatics; served with broiled sausages, boiled chestnuts in bouillon, and balls of potatoes fried, and gravy made of the braise liquor.
Young goose stuffed with mashed potatoes, which contain a slight seasoning of lightly fried onions. Apples in halves, pared, baked in goose-grease and little sugar, served with the roasted goose.
Goose stuffed with forcemeat made of onions, chestnuts, bread, parsley and seasonings. Braised in stock with aromatics for 2 hours; served with tomato sauce made of the braise liquor and drained tomatoes.
The Egyptians served geese at their meals every day; it was, with veal, the favorite dish of their monarchs, and they did not forget to offer some to King Agesilaus when he was traveling through the country.