This section is from the book "The Professed Cook: Or, The Modern Art Of Cookery, Pastry, And Confectionary", by B. Clermont. Also available from Amazon: The professed cook.
Perches out of Rivers, or clear running Water are best; those of marshy Pools, or muddy Ponds are apt to have a disagreeable taste. They are very good and wholesome, when pretty large and fat.
Trim off the Gills, and half of the Roe by the; Gills, to hinder them from bursting; tie up the Heads with packthread, and boil them with half white Wine and half Water, a good bit of Butter, slices of Onions, bits of Carrots and Parsley, two Cloves, two slices of Lemon, Pepper and Salt: When done, drain and scale them, and make a Sauce with Butter, a little Flour, some Broth, Pepper, Salt, and a good Lemon Squeeze: Serve upon the Fish.
Perche a la Tartare. Perch Tartary Fashion. Scale some middling Perches, cut them in two, flatten them a little with the handle of a knife, and marinate them about an hour in Oil, with chopped Parsley, Shallots, Mushrooms, and Powder of Basil; let as much of the Herbs flick to them as possible, and sprinkle Bread Crumbs over; broil them slowly, basting with the Marinade: Serve with a Sauce made of Cullis, a bit of Butter, Pepper, Salt, and a Lemon Squeeze.
Boil Perches in Broth and Wine, or braze them with a few slices of Bacon and Veal: When done, scale them, and serve with a Craw-fish Ragout, or a Ragout of Carp-roes, Sweet-breads, or any other: You may also serve them upon a napkin, with what Sauce you think proper, in a boat.
Perches a la Sainte Menehoult, are done after the same manner as all such directions, and so may all kinds of Fresh and Salt-water Fish.
Boil some Water for half an hour, with a good deal of Parsley, a few green Shallots, two or three Cloves, one Onion sliced, Thyme, Laurel, and a small handful of Salt; sift the Water clean, scale the Perches, and boil them therein: Make a Sauce with Butter and Flour, a little Vinegar, Capers, Anchovies, and two Yolks of hard Eggs chopped very fine, a few spoon-fuls of Broth, Pepper, Salt, and a little Nutmeg: Make a Liaison pretty thick, and serve upon the Fish when well drained of the Water.
Make a Roux (as formerly explained) with Butter and Flour; then put Water to it, with Parsleyroots, Carrots, Parsneps, slices of Onions, two or three Cloves, and a Laurel-leaf; boil these about half an hour, and sift the Liquor in a sieve; put this to what quantity of Perches you think proper, well cleaned and scalded; one Eel cut into pieces, or any sort of Fresh-water Fish; a glass of Brandy and Salt; boil on a smart fire to reduce the Liquor; and when almost done, add some Parsley coarsely chopped: You may add a little Butter if necessary.
Take out the Gills and half the Roe, boil them, without scalding, in a pint of white Wine and some good Broth, with a faggot of sweet Herbs, two or three Cloves, whole Pepper, Salt, and two spoon-fuls of good Oil: When done, take them out to scale; boil and reduce the Sauce, take out the Faggot, add some Butter rolled in Flour, a little chopped scalded Parsley, and a Lemon Squeeze, when ready to serve.
Clean and scale them, and flit the Sides in several places; marinate them about an hour in the Juice of a Lemon, with Pepper, Salt, sprigs of Parsley, one whole clove of Garlick, and a Laurel-leaf; then drain and roll them in Flour to fry of a good brown Colour: Serve with fried Parsley.
 
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