This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Would you like to eat crab sausages? Boil some of these animals; reduce them to a pulp; mix with this some spikenard, garum, pepper and eggs; give to this the ordinary shape of sausages, place them on a stove or gridiron, and you will, by these means, obtain a delicate and tempting dish. Apicius assures us of this fact; and he was a connoisseur!"
The meat of a large boiled crab chopped, seasoned with salt, white pepper, little nutmeg, pinch of cayenne, lump of butte" handful of bread crumbs; moistened with 2 or 3 spoons vinegar, hot, mixed with little made mustard and salad oil; shell filled; bread crumbs on top; baked; served very hot.
A large crab, the shell buttered inside, the meat minced and mixed with partly fried onion, parsley, mushrooms, truffles and butter; flour, salt, cayenne, few spoonfuls of broth or gravy; filled into the shell; bread crumbs on top; baked.
Crabsjx)iled, cleaned, broken, fried with onion and bacon; meat from other crabs held in reserve; water and tomatoes added to the fried crabs; stewed, thickened with flour and butter; cream added, salt, pepper, picked crab meat.
Scalloped crab or devilled crab in the shell.
In season only 4 months, May, June, July, August; the crab casts its shell yearly, and this is the new shell unhardened.
The small legs removed, also the flap and gills inside it; washed, wiped dry, dipped in cream, fried quickly in a kettle of hot lard or oil; dredged with fine salt; served on a napkin with parsley and lemon.
Breaded, flat in a double broiler, done over hot coals, and basted with butter.
"The Creole style of cooking hard-shell crabs is highly approved by epicures, but it doesn't recommend itself to Mr. Bergh's society for the prevention of cruelty. A big iron-pot is put over a very hot fire. The bottom of the pot is then covered with, say, 3 pints of the best white-wine vinegar, into which a few pinches of salt are thrown; upon this is sprinkled red pepper; then 2 or 3 narrow sticks are placed above the liquid, the ends resting at the sides of the pot; the cover is put conveniently by for hurried action; then the alive-crabs are packed in to the full, and the cover is put on. The steam of the condi ments soon enwraps them, and when the carapax is cardinal red, 'a dish fit for the gods' is ready for the refrigerator and then for the table. It is said by those who have eaten crabs cooked in this peculiar way that the natural moisture and flavor of the meat are preserved, and that the boiled condiments give singular piquancy to it".
The same as the various forms of hot crab, buttered crab, etc., which are but differences in seasonings; devilled crab is made hotter, with some pungent table sauce.