This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
I bullt, last year, a small greenhouse, with a view of having cut-flowers regularly for the center table. I had previously known little of the cultivation, and no more than a transient frequenter knows of the contents and mode of treatment necessary to produce the required result My gardener, who had previously conducted a little commercial greenhouse, was my adviser. We bought a hundred young Camellias, and some other plants, sowed seeds, potted Roses, got cuttings from friends, made a Are, and waited for flowers. I was disappointed - very much so; for though we bad; I must say, flowers, we could rarely do more than pluck a nosegay, such as sold for a couple of shillings, and not always that When made up, too, I had the mortification to notice in contemporaneous boquets, beautiful things that I had not got My Roses bloomed a little, very late; the Camellias very poorly - mostly dropped off; and I had the mortification of hearing that the temperature that suited one thing did not suit another. The attempt to combine a multitude of things, a great variety in one temperature, did not answer at all I took to reading, and searched all the books; but none gave me the information I wanted.
I can not afford two houses; I want Camellias, and Boses, and fine boquets all the season; I am willing to forego the Grapes on the rafters, which I see others have, and which I fear would crowd and shade too much. What am I to do.
When should the roses be potted, to give me a fine bloom by Christmas? What should be the selection of plants to produce the result designed? We have bad, from many writers, lists of select Roses, lists of seeds to plant in flower gardens, and so forth; but I do not find any select list of the proper contents of such a greenhouse as I have described. Would yoa, Mr. Editor, or some of your experienced correspondents, give a few practical instructional with a catalogue of such plants as give the best continual bloom during the cold months; what Roses do the best; and so forth? I confess, under present circumstances, I wish I had my eight hundred dollars back, unless I can get more flowers in winter. A little treatise on this subject is much wanted, which would give the learner some real information, and, if it must be so, tell him how much he must expect to be dieappointed / at the same time that It gives a catalogue of good blooming plants, say the indispensable. QUERIST.
This comes upon us too late in the month to do it full justice, and we cannot allow it to lay over wholly till next month. We will make a few suggestions, which we hope will he taken up and enlarged upon by some of oar practical correspondents who are well informed as to the "ways and means" of providing for a flowery greenhouse in the depth of winter.
It may be well enough to state, at the outset, that with a small greenhouse it is not a very easy matter to keep a great variety of plants in blossom, and to come quite up to "contemporaneous boquets" in all their beautiful things. To attempt too much, will be a certain cause of failure. The plants must be selected with their particular purpose in view. An economical supply of flowers for the months of November and December may be secured by lifting certain bedding plants from the garden, before the frost injures them. Of this class are Salvias, Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Abutilons, Bouvardias, Cnpheas, Habrothamnus, Plumbagos. If large, fine blooming plants of these are taken up in a moist time, with as much earth as possible around the roots, and placed in pots or boxes where they will have plenty of room, they will continue in bloom for a considerable length of time. They should be placed, after potting, in a close frame, and be shaded from the midday sun until they have taken to their new quarters, and then may be placed on the greenhouse stage.
Monthly Roses may also be used in the same way - Teas, Bengals, Bourbons and Noisettes, - in the absence of a stock properly prepared in pots, for earlv forcing. These might be nlanted in a warm place, and covered with a frame! protected at night with mate, and they will afford tome cut flowers for bouquets until the weather sets in severe. A small stock of Chrysanthemums is indispensable for the early winter months, up to Christmas. The Pompones are the best If they have been grown in pots, and plunged in the garden during summer, all the better. If planted out they must be taken up and managed as directed for bedding-plants. They must be near the light, and have abundance of water, with liquid manure occasionally.
A good supply of single Hyacinths, early Tulips, and Narcissus, should be provided. Pot them in October for early flowering. After potting, plunge them in sand or leaf-mold, covering pot and all until they are well rooted, and begin to push up leaves strongly. Then place on the shelves near the light, and water twice a week with weak liquid manure.
Many hardy shrubs force to good advantage. Among these are the Deutrias teabra and gracilis - the latter especially is a fine thing; the Persian Lilacs, both purple and white; the Spiraa prunifolia, double, and the Reevesi, - we prefer the latter, but both are good. The Ribes Gor doni and tangmnea, and the tanguinea double force well; and so do the Wiegela, Honeysuckles, Ac All these hardy shrubs should be potted early, and brought into heat gradually, beginning at 50 ° and getting up, as growth advances, to 70 ° or 75 °.
Among greenhouse plants proper, the Chinese Primrose, and especially the double ones, are an important item, as they take up little room and flower profusely and a long time.
Tree violets are indispensable. They may be kept in bloom finely during the early part of winter in a cold frame well protected against cold nights. This will save house room for something else. Then the Laurustinus, an old and general favorite, trained into miniature trees, as our friend Menand, at Albany, hus them,'nothing can be finer; also the Cytissus ramotus, the Coro-nillas, the Acacias, Justiciar Eranthemums, Poinsettias, Euphorbias. The Bouuardia lentha is a-fine winter-flowering plant, and so is the Stevia terrata, with white flowers. The Fiuehia $er-rati/oiia, too, blooms well; we have had plants lilted from the border in October, bloom nearly all winter in the house.
The Chinese Azaleas and Camellias are considered indispensable, but we haveno time at present to speak of their treatment We will do so if no one else does hereafter.
One great point in winter forcing for flowers is to have a regular, steady, advancing heat, no checks or retrogrades. To this add very careful watering, ventilation, great cleanliness, and keep the plants as near the glass as possible.
I should be happy to learn, through your paper, how to start the following ornamental trees and shrubs, and how to protect them daring winter: Deciduous Trees. - Allantas, Catalpa, Judas Tree, Kentucky Coffee Tree, Magnolia, Pawlonia, (1) Evergreen Trees. - Japan Cedar, Austrian Pine, Surer Fir, Norway Spruce, Balsam Fir. (8) Deciduous Shrubs. - Althea frutex, Buckthorn, Upright Honeysuckle, Privet, Japan Quince. (8) Evergreen Shrubs. - Box tree. (4) Climbers. - Trumpet Flower, Chinese Wistaria. (6) What is the most successful method of propagating the Briar Rose for stocks? (6) DANIEL LEE. - Normandals.
(1) Ailantur, Catalpa, Judas Tree, Kentucky Coffee Tree, all from seeds; sow in the spring. Magnolia tripetala, acuminata, glauca, and all the American species, from seeds; the purple con-tpicua, and the Chinese species, from layers and seeds, and by budding, grafting and inarching, on plentiful sorts. Pawlonia, - the best way is from seeds, as the seedlings are more hardy. So far it has been more propagated by cuttings of the roots.
(2) Japan Cedar, from seeds; plants from cuttings are not good. Austrian Pine, Silver Fir, Balsam Fir, and Norway Spruce, from seed. We would advise seeds of evergreens to be sown in shallow boxes of light sandy soil, early in spring. Keep them shaded from hot sun until they have become hardy enough not to "damp off".
(3) Altheas, Upright Honeysuckles, and Privet, from cuttings, made in winter and set in spring. Japan Quince from suckers, and from cuttings of the roots. (4) Box tree, from cuttings.
(5) Trumpet Flower and Chinese Wistaria, from outtings of the roots. (6) Propagate the Briar Rose from the seed, if you can get them. Sow as soon as ripe. If no be wintered in a dry cellar, Beds of tender seedlings likely to be cat down by front, may either be covered thickly with dry leaves or taken up sad laid in a sold frame well protected, and be again planted out in the spring.
Can you tell me how to construct so even for drying fruit? A Scratcher - Ohio.
We have copied, on another page a description of a rery good contrivance. It strikes us as the best thing of the kind we hare heard of.