This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Some of you make the best ices in the world, of which I have had practical experience. But why is it that it is impossible to get the Neapolitan sorbetto, which is something between a water ice and a glassful of flavored snow in a state of thaw? Gramolata, I should call it, rather, or granita, as in Florence. I presume it is as easy to make as a water ice, and only needs less freezing. In the summer it is the invariable first breakfast of the Neapolitan, who would be thrown into a fever by any hot beverage. The favorite flavors are lemon, coffee, and cedar, and it is usually eaten with biscuits or crescents".
Made of 1 qt. syrup, 1 pt. orange juice, rind of 3 oranges infused in 1 pt. water, strained, frozen.
Equal parts of rather firm and sweet custard, strongly flavored with vanilla, white of egg beaten stiff, and whipped cream. Mix these three ingredients very lightly together, and fill into moderate-sized paper souffle-cups, which place in an ice-cave.
Almond macaroon ice-cream.
Frozen Bavarian cream.
Ice-cream with infusion of orange flowers.