This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Hut in roasting, the fewer the trimmings the better the bird. A vine leaf tied over the breast and covered with a slice of fat bacon (the method known as barding) is quite allowable, and though a garnish of water-cresses is not forbidden, only a barbarian would souse the plump mouthfuls in brown gravy. Eaten with toast which has absorbed the trail in the roasting-pan, the quail is a prime dainty, and the man who does not overdo it may credit the tale of Hercules having been recalled to life after such a dietary, and pity the Romans, who ceased only after feasting at Attic banquets to believe that the coturnix caused epileptic fits".
"To return to my list of specialties of Parisian restaurants, I would advise all diners who visit Laperouse's house on the Qual des Grands Augustine during the autumn months to order, whether it be on the daily menu or not, a dish of cailles an riz, sometimes called cailles a la Duchesse. To prepare them at home proceed as follows: Clean and scorch 12 fat quails, putting their livers back; put them into a pan with some lard and about 1/2 lb. of salt pork (petit sale) cut into little dice. Brown rapidly by tossing them in the pan over a brisk fire; when three-quarters cooked, pour over 2 glasses of good bouillon, add a bouquet of parsley, a leaf of laurel, a clove of saffron, and some cayenne-pepper. Let the liquor reach boiling point three or four times, and then pour into it 3/4 lb. of picked rice which has been previously washed with care. Three minutes later cover up the pan, and allow the rice to cook over a slow fire. When this has taken place, take out the bouquet of parsley, and serve the rice on a plate, surrounded by the birds".
The chef de cuisitie at the Cafe de Paris gives the following recipe for a specialty at his excellent restaurant, namely, cailles a la Cendre. Bone your quails; fill them with a stuffing composed of poultry breast, bacon, and minced truffles; roll the birds, and butter them slightly. Place them in a row on a baking-tin, on a strip of abaisse, or dough rolled out thin. Arrange the abaisse so as to keep the birds together whilst baking, to which proceed after wrapping them in a sheet of butter-paper. Cook at moderate heat for 40 minutes. Remove the abaisse, and serve.
Quails with green peas.
Roast quails cut in halves, dished in a circle with a financiere garnish in the center.
Roast quails, the meat cut in dice in a chaudfroid sauce; served cold in small rolls made for the purpose.
An American paper says that blackberry jam is the newest epicurean wrinkle for eating with broiled quail.