This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Hut in roasting, the fewer the trimmings the better the bird. A vine leaf tied over the breast and covered with a slice of fat bacon (the method known as barding) is quite allowable, and though a garnish of water-cresses is not forbidden, only a barbarian would souse the plump mouthfuls in brown gravy. Eaten with toast which has absorbed the trail in the roasting-pan, the quail is a prime dainty, and the man who does not overdo it may credit the tale of Hercules having been recalled to life after such a dietary, and pity the Romans, who ceased only after feasting at Attic banquets to believe that the coturnix caused epileptic fits".
"To return to my list of specialties of Parisian restaurants, I would advise all diners who visit Laperouse's house on the Qual des Grands Augustine during the autumn months to order, whether it be on the daily menu or not, a dish of cailles an riz, sometimes called cailles a la Duchesse. To prepare them at home proceed as follows: Clean and scorch 12 fat quails, putting their livers back; put them into a pan with some lard and about 1/2 lb. of salt pork (petit sale) cut into little dice. Brown rapidly by tossing them in the pan over a brisk fire; when three-quarters cooked, pour over 2 glasses of good bouillon, add a bouquet of parsley, a leaf of laurel, a clove of saffron, and some cayenne-pepper. Let the liquor reach boiling point three or four times, and then pour into it 3/4 lb. of picked rice which has been previously washed with care. Three minutes later cover up the pan, and allow the rice to cook over a slow fire. When this has taken place, take out the bouquet of parsley, and serve the rice on a plate, surrounded by the birds".
The chef de cuisitie at the Cafe de Paris gives the following recipe for a specialty at his excellent restaurant, namely, cailles a la Cendre. Bone your quails; fill them with a stuffing composed of poultry breast, bacon, and minced truffles; roll the birds, and butter them slightly. Place them in a row on a baking-tin, on a strip of abaisse, or dough rolled out thin. Arrange the abaisse so as to keep the birds together whilst baking, to which proceed after wrapping them in a sheet of butter-paper. Cook at moderate heat for 40 minutes. Remove the abaisse, and serve.
Quails braised in stock and wine, with their livers and some chopped ham inside them, and bacon, ham, herbs and vegetables in the braise; served on a macedoine of vegetables.
Quails braised and served with stewed lettuce (like partridge and cabbage).
Quails with green peas.
Stuffed with the livers, bacon, and truffles; roasted; served with Perigeux sauce.
Roast quails cut in halves, dished in a circle with a financiere garnish in the center.
Stewed in stock with wine, with slices of sweet-bread, ham, truffles, herbs, and croutons to border.
Roast quails, the meat cut in dice in a chaudfroid sauce; served cold in small rolls made for the purpose.
An American paper says that blackberry jam is the newest epicurean wrinkle for eating with broiled quail.
 
Continue to: