This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
The old bird confessedly has a much higher flavor than the young one but do what one may the cook will never obtain the delicacy and tenderness which are characteristic of the young birds. The best way to prepare partridges in perfection is to cook old and young together; the old birds to impart flavor, the young ones only to be served at the table in the first instance, the others to appear in other forms than roasted or boiled, as in salmis or soups.
Partridge. Perdreau Or Perdr1x.
Boiled partridge with cabbage. One of the national dishes of France. Two young and one old partridges in a stewpan with 3 or 4 heads of cabbage, 4 sausages, 1 saveloy, 1/4 lb. parboiled bacon, parsley, 1 qt. stock, 1 glass sherry; simmered an hour.young partridges taken out, cabbage, etc., cooked longer. Cabbage pressed, chopped, placed on dish with sliced sausages and bacon as a border, partridges carved and piled in the middle, liquor remaining mixed with brown sauce poured over.
If you wish for a salmis possessing all desirable qualities do not use the leavings from a previous day, but let the bird be roasted 1/2 hour before dinner, cut it up while still warm and keep in a closed saucepan while sauce (fumei) is made of the bones and trimmings with sherry, onion, thyme, 1/2 a bay leaf, peppercorns and mushrooms and brown sauce. Boil down, strain and pour it over the cut up partridge.
Young birds that have been hung a while, slice of bacon over the breast tied on, roasted in the oven about 1/2 hour. Served with game sauce like that with salmis or with jelly.
Partridge browned on the outside in a pan with chopped bacon, onion and aromatics, wine added, braised gently. Raw ham cut in dice, a cupful of cloves of garlic previously parboiled and red pepper added.
May be served with poor man's sauce and Indian pickle. Old partridges are only fit for stewing with cabbage, for stock broth, and glaze of game; but are too tough for anything else.
Larded on the breasts, covered with buttered paper in a saucepan with vegetables and aromatics, braised in own steam and liquor 2 hours.
Cut in joints, half fried, broth added, stewed tender, orange juice and littte of the peel, butter and flour ballotines of partridges, to thicken.
Or any small birds on rice stand, jelly, truffle on top, etc.
Breasts of partridge flattened, a piece of bone or macaroni stuck in each, bread crumbed and fried, served with white game sauce with raisins, juice of grapes, etc.
Breasts of roast partridges dressed in a crown with young onions, carrots and turnips, cut in shapes and glazed, and game sauce.
Two kinds of fillets. (See Epigramme)
Thin round or oval slices from the breast in a white game sauce with truffles.
An ornamental mould of vegetables filled with larded and braised partridges, pieces of sausage, dice of bacon and jelly. (See Chartreuse).
Puree of roast partridges with cream, yolks, and whipped whites, baked in paper cases.
Outside fried with butter and ham, espagnole, water, sherry, parsley, aromatics, red pepper, all stewed together 40 minutes. Sauce strained.
Boiled with salt pork and vegetables; puree of celery poured over.
 
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