This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
It consists of the first stomach of the ox. The fibre differs from that of meat; is both nutritious and of easy digestion. To cleanse tripe is quite a trade of itself, it being an object to make the finished product as white as possible; the method is to steep the tripe in lime water or in lye water for 2 or 3 days and then scrape away the outer coating, after which it is soaked in several waters for some days longer. The hotel buyer finds it in market ready-prepared, either uncooked and fresh or in kegs in spiced vinegar ready-cooked. The raw tripe requires 10 hours slow boiling to make it tender for the subsequent modes of dressing; the soused tripe is used in all the same ways, and if desired can be divested of most of the vinegar by soaking in water with a little soda; simple-washing in one water is, however, generally a sufficient preparation.
"The Greeks devoured tripe with much complacency, regarding it, indeed, as a dainty fit for heroes. It formed the chief dish at the banquets of men who met to celebrate the victory of mortals and gods over the sacrilegious Titans." - "The Carleton Club has a famous specialty of broiled honey-comb tripe with butter." - "Well-dressed tripe with its natural accompaniment - onions - is an excellent supper-dish, as it is equally digestible as a sole." - "Those who are fond of tripe I should advise to instruct their cooks to use white crystal sugar in the cooking, say one ounce to the pound of meat, to be stirred in immediately before being served".
"Happening to be at Caen I took steps to learn exactly how the tripe, for which this town is so famous, is prepared. Strangers sometimes wish to regale themselves with this dish; but if they happen to partake of it on a week-day, they run great risks of being disappointed, for it is on Sundays only that the wholesale manufacture takes place. Every Saturday the lovers of tripe carry dishes, soup-plates, and other receptacles to the different shops. The money to pay for each portion is invariably put in the bottom of each plate. At some shops these dishes come in by dozens, and long journeys arc often undertaken by customers to reserve the quantities they desire at the shops in good repute. For if the preparation of tripe is a general industry here, one only finds that fine gold-colored sauce, which is so justly appreciated, at those houses where only the best ingredients are used, one of the principal of which is the good butter of the district The following is the recipe usually followed, and is suited to all countries: Take some fine fresh tripe, bleached and well washed in warm water. Rinse it thoroughly, and let the water run off completely. Cut the tripe into two-inch squares. Bone 4 cowheels, and cut them into pieces; take an ox-tail and cut it into several pieces.
Take a large narrow-mouthed stone jar, put in it first a layer af tripe, then a layer of onions, next your pieces of cow-heel, then the ox-tail, then the rest of the tripe. Add a good handful of leeks, parsley, thyme, and laurel-leaves, plus 1 onion into which you have stuck 6 cloves. Cover the whole with 1 kilo of butter (2 lbs. 3 1/2 oz.), and 1 kilo of good fresh beef-kidney fat. Pour in 2 litres (4 1/2 pts.) of caramelized water, 2 glasses of brandy, and hermetically close the jar. Put it into an oven, and let it bake for 10 hours. You will thus obtain tripe of most excellent quality".
Trophy OF PIGEONS [BONED].
A company having been formed to establish and conduct a number of tripe houses or restau-rants, the directors had a sample dinner prepared where the principal dishes were "Tripe a l'An-glaise" (broiled), "Fried Tripe a la Sotibise" (with puree of onions), "Tripe a la Milanaise" (in tomato sauce), "Baked Tripe and Onion Sauce".
Cut 1 1/2. lbs. of tripe into narrow strips, put in a saucepan with enough gravy stock to cover it, add 1/2 lb. of tomatoes, some chopped onion, a clove of garlic, little olive-oil, salt, Worcestershire sauce, and red peppers. Stew gently until well done, and serve.
Cut in strips, mixed with fried onions and espagnole, or meat-gravy.
Take the thickest and whitest tripe, cut it into thin slices, and put them in a stewpan with a little white gravy, 1 spoonful of vinegar, a little lemon-juice and grated lemon-peel; add the yolk of 1 egg well beaten, with a little cream and chopped parsley; shake together over a slow fire until the gravy is as thick as cream, but do not let it boil; served with sippets of toasted bread.
Wiped dry, dipped in egg and cracker dust, fried.
Pieces about 2 1/2 inches square dipped in fritter batter and fried in a kettle of hot lard or oil; served for breakfast.