This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
"Salmon ought to be eaten as soon as possible after it is caught. Nothing can then exceed the beautiful curdiness of its texture, whereas your kept fish gets a flaccidity that I cannot away with. N. B. - Simple boiling is the only way with a salmon just caught; but a gentleman of standing is much tne better for being cut into thickish slices (cut across, I mean) and grilled with cayenne." "Salmon also, if it be a large fish, is best boiled in portions. After it has been a minute in the boiling water, lift the drain, and let the water flow off; repeat this several times, and it will cause the curd to set and make the fish eat more crisply. Henry William Herbert recommends a kettle 'screeching with intense heat, and filled with brine strong enough to bear an egg.' He deprecates any sauce, as likely to injure its own delicious flavor, and speaks with the utmost contempt of the barbarism of eating green peas or any other vegetable with salmon. The thinnest part of salmon is the fattest part; and if you have an epicure at table, he will certainly feel slighted if not helped to some of it." (See Scoilish, Kettle of Fish).
Dip slices of salmon into Florence oil, strew over them cayenne pepper and salt, and wrap them in oiled paper; fry them 10 minutes in boiling lard, and then lay the papered cutlets on a gridiron, over a clear fire, for 3 minutes longer.
Boiled in seasoned stock, served with Hollandaise sauce.
Salmon cut in pieces stewed in curry sauce.
Salmon steaks stewed, and anchovy sauce made of the liquor with butter, etc.
A thick cut from the middle of the fish.
The Columbia river canned salmon is a remarkably good substitute for fresh fish, when, as often happens, the fish does not arrive in time for the hotel dinner, and still the fish course cannot well be left out. It is made hot by setting the cans in boiling water, and the fish should be served without breaking or moving it more than once, and with any of the usual boiled fish sauces. Canned salmon may be scalloped, baked in a dish of cream sauce, ot au gratin with bread-crumbs and butter on top, in shells, in patties, in cassolettes, croquettes, rissoles, and in various other ways in combination with other fish and shellfish, as in a matelote.
Has always been held a prime delicacy; it is picked apart without cooking, decorated with green and served that way for breakfast or supper, or else thinly sliced and served the same way. Also, steeped in warm water, sliced and made hot in buttter and pepper with a little water, or, after soaking, broiled and buttered.
The following is copied from an old cookery book, dated 1753: "To pickle salmon as at Newcastle: Cut pieces according to the size of the fish; then take 2 qts. of good vinegar, black pepper and Jamaica pepper (1/2 oz. each), cloves and mace (1/4 oz. each), and 1 lb. salt Bruise the spice pretty large, and put all these to a small quantity of water; as soon as it boils put in the fish and boil it well; take the fish from the pickle and let it stand to cool, and then put it into the barrel it is to be kept in, strewing some of the spice between the pieces. When the pickle is cold, skim off the fat, and pour the liquor on the fish and cover it very close.