This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
20 lbs. Pickled Salmon and Sliced Cucumber. 18 Roast Fowls. 1 Ham. Fore and Hind Quarter Lamb. Boiled Round Beef. Roast Sirloin, horseradish. 12 Fruit Tarts. 12 Velvet Creams, 12 Jellies. Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes, and Ice.
Mayonnaise of Salmon, 30 lbs.
Pressed Beef. 4 Pigeon Pies.
Roast Sirloin Beef, horseradish.
18 Roast Fowls. 4 Tongues. 1 Ham.
12 Swiss Pastry. 8 Assorted ditto. 4 Fruit Tarts.
18 Dishes Stewed Fruits. 6 Devonshire Cream.
Plenty of Salad, Bread, Butter, New Potatoes,
Peas, and Ice.
20 lbs. Mayonnaise of Salmon. 6 Lobster Salads.
1 Forced Turkey. 2 Targets of Lamb.
12 Roast Fowls. 1 York Ham. 3 Tongues.
6 Dishes Fruit Tarts. 6 Custards.
6 Dishes Stewed Fruit. 6 Devonshire Cream.
Plenty Salad, Bread, Butter, Cheese, New Potatoes,
Green Peas, and Ice.
"The foregoing were all supplied on the field, in a tent erected for that purpose. We did not provide the tent nor seats, but sent everything else, such as plate, glass cutlery, linen, kettles, saucepans, washing-up tins and cloths. We had a small American stove on the outside of the tent, and cooked the new potatoes and green peas when required - everything else was sent ready prepared from the hotel; but we dished and decorated the luncheon after Its arrival, so that it looked perfectly fresh. Everything that would admit of it was carved beforehand and dished, so that guests could help themselves; the waiters cutting the heavy joints as required, passing round the vegetables, bread, etc., as wanted, and attending to the orders for wines, which were under the special charge of the headwaiter. Every bottle of wine, spirits, beer, or mineral water was booked to him, and after the luncheon he was required to return either the stock in full or its value in money. We made a sort of bar counter at the end of the tent so as to avoid all delay in serving.
I may here add that this temporary bar did duty all day for whatever drinks were required. (Mem.: It is necessary to obtain a special license from the magistrates to enable any one to sell excisable articles at or in any other place than their own properly licensed premises; but you may pack any quantity from the hotel in a luncheon-basket without the special license, provided it is ordered and paid for in the hotel, and not retailed or sold afterwards.) When serving out-door luncheons, etc., be sure to be well supplied with bread, salt, etc., etc., corkscrews, champagne-nippers, ice, ice-hammers, needles, washing-up tins and cloths. I have known most excellent repasts almost spoiled by the omission of one or more of these very necessary articles. Also be careful to have a plentiful supply of good water carried up to the field, if there is not a well very near.
"I have always had the viand6 taken up in locked-up boxes, keeping the jellies, creams, etc, in their moulds till really needed to place on the table. The chef has gone up to the cricket field and turned out the sweets at the given time, as we easily procured hot water from the American stove for dipping the jelly and cream moulds into. At the same time he also carved and dished up the fowls, so they did not become dry from standing long exposed. Flowers, parsley, and other garnishes should be put on the different viands the last thing, as they so soon lose their freshness.
"The above bills of fare are only intended as examples when the luncheons are given outside the house and at moderate prices. I have always found that simple, but substantial, dishes are much preferred by the hungry cricketers to what Shakespeare calls "pretty, tiny little kickshaws." Should, however, the match-ground be near enough for the players to come to the hotel, a much more varied repast can be given for the same price, as the labor and loss of serving in the house is nil when compared with the trouble and expense of catering at a distance. I have had many cricket-luncheons served in the hotel when to the quoted bills of fare have been added clear soup - if the club wished - or some nice little entree, such as mutton cutlets and fresh tomatoes, fillets of beef and mushrooms, lamb chops and asparagus, hot crabs or lobsters and cucumbers. This last dish, by the way, was always so much liked that we never could quite satisfy the many who wanted a second helping.
"It will be well to mention here that I have found it more satisfactory to supply one good entrie, but plenty of it, than a little of two or three kinds; for it is a curious fact nearly all want the same, and it is mortifying after an entrie has served about a dozen to find twenty other guests asking for that particular dish, and obliged to go without, whereas there may be a couple of entries scarcely touched at all.
"I remember on one occasion serving fifty splendid hot crabs and cutting up twenty large cucumbers (in vinegar with pepper and salt, the same as would be served with salmon), and not an atom of either was left; whereas a dish of beef rissoles was untouched, and only one eaten from the chicken and ham patties.
" Do not forget to have plenty of ice on the tables, whether the refreshments be served in the house or on the field; nor yet when luncheon baskets are packed for races or picnics. Much the same fare will do on any or all occasions; only when packing for races I have always had the fowls carved and tied together with white ribbon; salad nicely washed and placed in tin cases; salad-dressing and mint sauce made and bottled; butter, cheese, etc., etc., put into earthenware pots, with a plentiful supply of bread, salt, pepper, mustard, etc., not forgetting the corkscrews, nippers, ice, ice needles and hammer; also napkins, crockery, cutlery, glass, spoons, forks, and requisites for washing-up purposes.
"Note. - Unless the committee finds the tents, seats, etc., an extra charge must be added for these in accordance with the hire-payment made by the hotel-keeper." - From the London Caterer and Hotel Proprietor's Gazette.