This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Cream Fritters, vanilla flavor Roasts.
Suet Pudding, wine sauce.
Rice Pudding Sliced Apple Pie.
Holland Cake Charlotte Russe Ladies' Cake.
Hickory Nuts Figs English Walnuts.
Vanilla Ice Cream.
When, in the matter of these side dishes or of any other question of arrangement, there seems to be such diversity of practice even amongst the higher class of caterers, we come back to the fact that there is such a thing as an American hotel bill of fare that is a pattern to itself, and indeed is becoming a pattern to many on the other side of the Atlantic as numerous printed bills of their hotels show, and the old forms, which are more perplexing than useful to follow, are In our bills of fare ignored and left over for those to carry out whose duties compel them to conform to foreign usages. The hotel named on preceding page will be recognized as a representative one and one of the largest size, yet its bill of fare is very faulty in arrangement, if it is to be judged by foreign rules; it is, curiously enough, the desperate effort to make an American hotel bill conform to a Parisian pattern, in reason and without reason, which makes it faulty, for it is neither the one nor the other; the curacoa sherbet, the antelope, the snipe and the salads are all out of their proper places beyond dispute, while other dishes and even divisions stand upon disputed ground.
But to finish the hors d'asuvres question: One object of inserting the Fifth Avenue Hotel bill on preceding page was to show that even the best hotels do not always enumerate such things as come under that designation, but if they do, the proper place for celery, olives, sliced tomatoes and similar cold trifles Is after the soup. It is necessary to state this definitely because serious contentions often arise between steward and proprietor on just such questions, and there are some who maintain that such cold "appetizers" should be written in after the fish " to take away the taste of fish," as they reason. In the smaller hotels, where the cold trifles are placed on the table in advance to facilitate quick service and save waiters' labor, the particular line occupied in the bill of fare Is of little consequence, but the best usage decides after the soup. For example:
Oysters on half shell.
Soups. Clam Paysanne.
Boiled Haddock, shrimp sauce Baked Sole Genoise Parisian Potatoes.