This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Sirloin of Beef, with Browned Potatoes.
Sugar Cured Ham, Sherry Sauce.
Calf's Head, a la Toulouse.
Boiled Potatoes Mashed Potatoes.
Ice Cream, au Muscat.
Dates Assorted Nuts.
Kimball House, Jan. 9, 1887.
But the real object of introducing these examples is to show the best place to locate the cold meats, that is at'the end of all the other meats; if entrees are the last let cold meats follow them, if game appears after the entrees let cold meat come after the game. The Fifth Avenue and the Sherwood have them higher up, and they do not look so well up there dividing the hot meats. That is about all the argument there is in the case, for this division is the bete noir of the tasty bill of fare writer. The majority of hotel caterers try very hard indeed to twist their table d'hote bill into the shape of the French course dinner bill, with its sorbet or punch in the middle and its game after the punch and salad after the game; and they manage that far very well, but when the cold meats division has to come in they are at a loss; the Parisian course dinner has no cold meats division so they have no guide. But the hotel customers don't care a fig about that, and want cold meats just the same. As caterers to the tastes of hotel patrons we have but little concern with their motives, but we know from experience that no matter what the hot meats may be some few out of a number always call for the cold cuts.
It may be that at the mid-day dinner some people restrict themselves to selecting only a lunch, taking their hot meal at supper time, or, at evening dinner some people allow themselves only a light supper, letting all the rich and savory hot dishes severely alone at that time of day or night The "cold meats" division, therefore, has to be tolerated; the only thing to be done is to fill it with but few items, and one or more should be of the rich and ornamental sort - aspics, mayonaises, boar's head, galantines, raised patis. The inquiring reader should note in these examples the two different ways of placing the date: with and without the day of the week; at top and at lower left-hand corner; and the subsidiary lines, and also that all three have headings to the different divisions, and at the same time make no mention of "relishes." Attention is also directed to the example of two New York hotel bills - the Sherwood here and Victoria in a previous article of this series - in serving macaroni and spaghetti as a vegetable, or with the vegetables; that is not an oversight, misfit or mistake, but all those dishes are properly classed as entremets by those who wish to have things that way; so are puddings.