This section is from the book "The Steward's Handbook And Guide To Party Catering", by Jessup Whitehead. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
Perhaps a better illustration of the form of making up an American-French course dinner could not be found than the annexed novelty, which turns up at the right time to verify the foregoing statements. The principal difference betwixt this and the table d'/iote form is that nobody can choose which dish they will take and which they will pass by in the course dinner, but each one is served the same, while at table d'hote each individual may choose one thing or twenty, at discretion. This was an annual dinner of an association of traveling men beld at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York. The menu is written in imitation of a railroad ticket, with coupon attachments, and must be read from bottom to top, the first coupon to be torn off being the first course, of which there are ten in all - from Drawing Room to Oysters; from Oysters to Soup; from Soup to Hors d'ceuvre; Hors d'ceuvre to Fish (with potatoes and cucumbers); from Fish to Releve; from Releve to Entrees; from Entrees to Punch; from Punch to Roast and Salads; from Roast to Pastry and Creams; from Pastry to Fruit, Cheese, Coffee and Liqueurs. It will be noted that the wines appear with the dishes. "Old Reserve" is sherry with the soup.
The aptness of the quotation under the hot hors d'auvre consists in the word mouthful, bouchee means mouthful. This is termed an American-French menu because it has Blue Points, Diamond-back Terrapin, Kennebec Salmon, Red-head Duck ("dear," too) and a good deal of French language. But it is a good pattern:
- Sidney Smith. "And all the people laid - 'Am.' "
"Spirits, which by mine art I hare from their confines call's' to enact My present fancies".
- "Tempest," Act IV, Scene 1
Bombes a la Windsor Petits Fours.
"I will make an end of my dinner, there's pippins and cheese to come".
- "Merry Wires of Windsor," Act I, Scene it.
Red-Head Duck Lettuce.
"0, dainty dock! 0, dearf" - "Midsummer Night's Dream," Act V, Scene1
Punch au Kirsch.
"Is it a party in the parlor? Crammed just as they on earth were crammed. Some sipping punch." - Wordsworth's "Peter Bell" (Suppressed passage).
Diamond-Back Terrapin a la Maryland.
"This lapwing runs away with the shell on her head".
- "Hamlet," Act V, Scene 11.
"If you gire me any conserves, give me conserve of beef".
- "Taming of The Shrew" (Introduction).
Kennebec Salmon a la 1 Iollandaise.
Concombres Pommes, Parisleone.
"the, that in wisdom never were as frail,
To change the ccal read for the salmon's tail".
- -Othello," Act II, Scene 11
Petites Bouchees a la Montglas.
" • • plays and tumbles, driving the poor fry before him, and at last devour! them all at a mouthful'.
- "Pericles," let II, Scene i.
Consomml, Colbert Royal.
"Mingles with the friendly bowl,
The feast of reason and the flow of soul".
- Pope's "Imitation of Horace".
"The banquet waits our presence, festal joy Laughs in the mantling goblet, and the night Illumin'd by the taper's dazzling beam, Rivals departed day".
- Brown's "Barbarossa".
Complimentary banquet tendered to the New England Grocers at the Grand Central Hotel, New York, Tuesday afternoon, Nov. ist, at 2 o'clock:
Blue Point Oysters on the half shell.
Punch a la Romaine.
Vanilla Ice Cream.
Nuts and Raisins Ice Cream.
For a good practical example of a dinner in courses the preceding may be taken. It is open to criticism on some points, such as using the French spelling of filet instead of English fillet, and in another respect, perhaps not worth naming, but it happily adapts American favorite dishes, such as roast turkey and sweet potatoes, to the uses of an unfamiliar form of service. It is to be observed that in a course dinner each dish of meat and game, as well as fish, has its own vegetable accompaniment, and the vegetables are not to be bunched together as they are in the table d'hote bill of fare.